Spirito and Blakey: Thanks for the advice (and the links!). I was a bit hesitant about getting a 27” frame, but now it doesn’t bother me as much. I was leaning towards a 700c frame, but I thought the tyre clearance might’ve been a problem.
As for a frame… the one I looked at last night wasn’t worth it. Might check out a few tomorrow, but I’ll just keep my eye out for one. Hard rubbish is coming up in my area soon as well.
If you know someone In Sydney who can box/pack this for you I have this …
It’s only a lowly mid 70’s Malvern Star but somebody has taken the time to do a half decent homejob repaint with linework and contrast detailing. It’s actually darker than the pic shows. Part are all there 'cept seatpost, saddle and pedals, funky mix … Shimano 500 rear derailleur !!! The fenders are aluminium and original to the bike. 27" alloy wheels but they are too much trouble to true straighten, tires are old …hubs will be fine. Got a lot of flavour for an ordinary bike and I’ve always thought it would be better served slightly stripped and reconfigured as a townie. Should suit what you’re looking to build if you’re on a budget. (hint: cheap … but you gonna have to get someone to box/ship it for you). For Zoltan only and I have a bunch of long reach brakes that I could set it up with so that it’ll work with 700c rims. PM me 
Otherwise I have many frames that would suit with better quality tubing, fancier lugs etc but they quickly get pricey, and are probably more than you’re looking to spend.
Hmmm. I have no Sydney acquaintances. I’m after the frame and forks only (and possibly a headset).
So far I have… wheels (700c low profile Campy Gamma rims laced to Suntour hubs), cranks (165mm Shimano 600 Arabesque), pedals (MKS road), bars (3ttt “Priest”-esque copies), stem (Cinelli), saddle (Black Brooks Team Pro) and front rack.
I just need seat post, rear derailleur (hopefully an Arabesque one), brakes (callipers and levers) and of course the frame.
But I’ll PM you about the other frames 
You can’t have a citybike without fenders! You have to have fenders.
Haha. I was just going to run Raceblades (for now)!
No! Don’t do it! That MS has full guards, much nicer, and they’ll actually work.
Or for the wigglers, Vavert fixed hybrid mudguards, lots of colours to choose from, good mounting hardware and only $30.
No … That’s like taking a hot chick out for dinner and not showering or brushing your teeth before hand and wearing yesterdays undies.
Neither Blakey nor myself would foolish enough to make mention of something if we didn’t think/know of it’s merits and benefits. Half assed fenders are worse than nothing at all … actually even minus. It’s a lot of extra work and detail but if done right really makes the bike look just right and adds a lot of function too. If you were in Sydney I’d have you in ahead lock right now until you gave in !!!
Okay, okay…
Well it looks like I found a frameset in Adelaide in my price. 27”, Tange 900 tubing, FENDER MOUNTS. I’ll look into those fenders Blakey pointed out on Wiggle and might go with them. I have some old Bluemell (sp?) ones, but they’re the wrong colour (unless I paint the frame a shade of blue). But I’d be leaning towards chrome or black anyway.
But I’m pretty much set now, just got to start gathering a few more parts.
Ahh, well done. Tange 900 is plenty fine tubing.
Bluemel fenders are period correct for most older bikes, but have ordinary hardware and are a shabby sloppy fit at best. That was always part of their character. I’d check with any of the Velo Orange stockists in Oz and see if they have any of the Velo Orange alu fenders (bolts, stays and fenders are best quality for the price. Plastic or SKS style fenders are OK but only after fitting/using both types do you understand where the extra money is better spent.
Don’t buy nay fenders until you’ve fitted a wheels and tyres in the frame and you have an exact idea of fit.
Well done !!!
Yeah, I’ll look into some VO fenders. Still haven’t decided to go with gum walls or all black tyres, to get CX tyres or more slick touring tyres. Also, part of me wants to get the frame repainted / powder coated and stick some 3rensho decals on it for shits and giggles. I mean, two of the other bikes we own have been badged as something else, I might as well carry on the tradition…
EDIT: I just realised three of the bikes we own have been badged as something else, not two. How I could forget the F(ake) Moser?!?!?
Oh yeah, how hard would it be to run a bar end shifter (like this) on a frame that has brazed on shifter mounts?
RB-1 by John Prolly, on Flickr
If you’re going that route then really make it yours, paint it black and call it Zoltan … Hound of Dracula
Zoltan, Hound of Dracula (film) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
See if anyone you know has a fat tyre that you can use for a trial fit - that way you’ll have a ball park reference for clearance before deciding on tyres and also know what length brake reach will be needed. I second Panaracer Pasella’s for the width you’re aftera nd they are easily sourced. Don’t fall into the trap of buying trick looking tyres that are soon discontinued. I second Panaracer Pasella’s for the width you’re aftera - good value, ride well, easily sourced and look right. There’s no rule of thumb but the distance between tyre and frame parts but around 15mm is needed before it starts getting tight. You can fit in tighter spaces but it gets really tricky, very quickly. You’ll learn new swear words before it’s over - don’t cut anything until you’ve ridden it for a day or two.
Not hard at all but all the little bits quickly start adding up to $'s … and there’s extra clutter + routing cables under bar tape or custom fitting them through the bars or around grips. If you’re planning to run it with just the rear derailleur (5 or 6 speeds) them a simple thumb shifter is both cheaper, and looks cleaner.
Falcon Friction Thumb Shifters - Shifters - Shifters & Derailleurs - Components
Do your gearing calculations - 5 gears is plenty for this style of bike, don’t spread them too wide as you want it to be sprightly if needed. 13-21 is ideal with say a 45t chairing. You need an easy gear for loaded riding up hills (or when drunk), a slightly easier gear for little hills, a normal about town riding gear (say 68"), a slighty faster gear for when you’re late for work and a really fast gear for when you’re being chased by wogs with knives.
Feel free to substitute wogs with dogs, cops, bogans or ex-gf’s if it offends you
Yeah, I thought about that and am borrowing a 700x34c tyre for fit. If that’s a struggle or too tight, I’ll know I can run 32’s with less problems. The Panaracer’s looks nice as well. It’d be nice to have a gumwall tyre in the sea of black at home.
Maybe I’ll just rip off Ren’s bike for inspiration in colours (except I’ll have a black saddle and tape), especially if I do go ahead with 3rensho decals.
As for swears… don’t get me started. I think I know too many already.
EDIT:
Dogs with knives?
Side note, my mate Big Chipper got chased by a bogan with a knife…
Following this thread with interest.
Quick question. I understand the 27 inch wheeled frame with 700c wheels for clearance for fenders and stuff.
Could you do a similar thing with a frame suitable for 700c wheels, but use 650b wheels?
Obviously long reach calipers would be needed, but then I could fit some nice fenders in my Soma Van Ness.
Yes … you’ll need to come up with 18 or 19mm more brake reach. You’ll likely lower the BB a little bit but there’s no major issues if you have enough clearance for fat tyres and fenders.
I’ve done this to a few bikes including the one below for Mrs. Spirito. It now runs 700c (she complained when I reverted it). Indeed it made a sweet handling bike even better when fitted with 650b’s - lots of grip and a very smooth ride. Eventually, I got jealous and wanted the wheels for myself !!!
Don’t be afraid to leave a little room in there … with this style of bike: longer wheelbase, relaxed geometry etc it actually makes sense to want the extra room as these bikes were designed to ride with fatter tyres and handle better for it. Also keep in mind that clearances on the front (fork crown) and back (brake and chainstay bridges) may be different so check both front and rear.
It’ll be trickier to load the bike on roof racks if they hold the bike without a front wheel, and it’s not easy to throw it into a small hatchback like a bike without fenders. Running more clearance is helpful if you’re wheel gets dented and you need to ride it home. 5mm between tyre and fender looks great … a little more is better, but not too much or things get caught up in there and it doesn’t shield the rain and dirt as well.
Really long at the front (in front of your feet) is preferable … many people make/attach an extra mudflap as that’s where most of the water/dirt on your feet and drivetrain comes from.
Plenty of info on the webs for fitting fenders and here’s a good write up form an Oz coolio …
Australian Cycling Forums • View topic - Velo-Orange polished fluted alloy fenders
Well we own a wagon, so fitting a bike in the back is no problems without taking wheels off.
i’m pretty excited on building up a “practical” bike. Mrs. JLN not ZLTN talked me out of buying a cheap complete, but so impractical yet looks amazing, Kypo pursuit road bike saying this would be a better idea. I knew I married her for a reason.
But I’m sure the Kypo is still for sale… Maybe later.
JLN - Be careful with handlebar inside diameter and barcon mounting. MTB and road bars usually have different dimensions.
Gordy - I have a Salsa La Raza that’s designed for 700C with guards and am running 32x650B on it. As a result I’m using long reach centrepull brakes (70mm+). The Van Ness takes short reach right? In that case you may get away with medium reach brakes, or med-long. Shimano make some nice ones, as do Tektro, and there’s the Gran Compe centrepulls mentioned earlier.
Measure your current brake reach and do the math with 622 vs 584mm rim diameter. Easy!
Front clearance Salsa La Raza 650B Conversion | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Driveside Salsa La Raza 650B Conversion | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
There are some hot 700C->650B conversions out there, from super practical to superbike style.
Look with Pari-Motos: Pari-Motos! | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Noone does it better than Weigle:
Raleigh 650b conversion…jpw Creative Restoration | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
650b Conversion— Creative restoration | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
New Years Day Ride in Lyme, | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
650b Raleigh Conversions…“Miss” Rene" wannabe’s… | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
I mean, seriously:
What I did on my summer vacation… by jp weigle, on Flickr
JLN - Be careful with handlebar inside diameter and barcon mounting. MTB and road bars usually have different dimensions.
Gordy - I have a Salsa La Raza that’s designed for 700C with guards and am running 32x650B on it. As a result I’m using long reach centrepull brakes (70mm+). The Van Ness takes short reach right? In that case you may get away with medium reach brakes, or med-long. Shimano make some nice ones, as do Tektro, and there’s the Gran Compe centrepulls mentioned earlier.
Measure your current brake reach and do the math with 622 vs 584mm rim diameter. Easy!
Front clearance Salsa La Raza 650B Conversion | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Driveside Salsa La Raza 650B Conversion | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
There are some hot 700C->650B conversions out there, from super practical to superbike style.
Look with Pari-Motos: Pari-Motos! | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Noone does it better than Weigle:
Raleigh 650b conversion…jpw Creative Restoration | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
650b Conversion— Creative restoration | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
New Years Day Ride in Lyme, | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
650b Raleigh Conversions…“Miss” Rene" wannabe’s… | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
I mean, seriously:
What I did on my summer vacation… by jp weigle, on Flickr