Got sick of the valve stems rattling like crazy (and spooking the shit outta me cause it sounds like all the spokes are about to let go) whilst in fast descending corners. So came up with this for the hills tomorrow…. #proasmate
^ i found blu-tack shoved around the valve helped on my cosmic SLs
I got some electrical tape and wrapped it back on itself around a valve stem. That way it keeps the right size and shape and you can just slide it over the valve stem once you’ve put the tyre on.
And it doesn’t look ugly like ^that^ 
drinking straws. (sometimes)
Oh man so f’ing ugly not to mention not aero!! Didn’t think of the reverse wrap, will do…. tomorrow…… maybe.
Tape works perfectly but if you want the clean pro look, grab one of those round clear thin (apparently) self adhesive patches - prick a hole in the centre and slip it on over the valve.
I use em on the frame too in the spots that cables contact
fucking clever, rubber o rings might go alright here too
Dreaming dickhead - durex/ansells are way too big for that
too tight to shell out for a new thingy for my beat up old sidi’s
^^ Thread win.
I use some of the PRO bartape adhesive strips. If you cut it you get three PRO’s worth per valve. By default it is the most pro setup you can have.
Alternatively, a kanye’s skunkworks sticker works excellent too.
this is the go
unfortunately i have some rattling on a track tubular and i dont really fancy removing the tyre to fix it so i have the ugly external tape happening… if you have to do this make sure you use proper duct tape because the electrical tape doesnt hold all that well and just ends up coming off
I’ve been wanting to correct the position of my bars/shifters/stem for a while: shifters too high, bars turned ‘inside’ too much, stem and bars not in line. So I aligned the bar and stem, nice horizontal line, and pushed the shifters forward. All good. But then when I went to put the cantilevers’ cables in place, I couldn’t do it. Cables were too short: pushing shifters forward means that brake cables are going to be longer, duh. This quick and easy job now becomes more complicated, and I’ve always been a bit afraid of working on brakes. Anyway, took me about 20 extra mins and I adjusted the brakes nicely, not too tight, not too loose. Short ride to check that brakes and everything is good, and a celebratory Little Creatures ensued. 
You did well. Well done.
A short piece of heatshrink from your local electrical store works well, have done this in Shamal’s, Tecno416’s and other deep alloy rims, heat gun and carbon rim may be less than ideal though.
what happend to those two little gromment things I gave you, did they work, I can’t remember.
No they didn’t fit. I can’t really remember either 
I think they were for putting presta valves in schraeder holes maybe.
what about using heat shrink?
I was having trouble removing my ISIS drive crank arms today with a standard crank extractor, obviously doesn’t work. Instead of buying the correct tool I found spacers smaller than the crank but larger than the bottom bracket, they were just crushed. I tried a 5c coin, crushed. I tried a $2 coin, crushed. I found an axle lock ring nut thingo too big, filed it to size, works perfect. I wish a had a photo.
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