Attn: Chris King hub owners

Don’t use lithium grease in your ringdrive, you will kill it. Also, if your hub is not engaging or is slipping out of engagement, get it looked at, you’re doing this to it (dead on left):

  • Joel

Very similar looking, what am I meant be looking at?

Everything seems to be in order there.

For what are supposed to be the sw8est hubs around, I sure am hearing a lot of big time hassle with them being finnicky and just general pains-in-the-arse.

The helical splines on the left have worn down in the centre, where the splines engage with the splines in the drive ring, as a result of the driveshell slipping inside the drive ring. They’re not meant to rotate against each other. Each of those helical splines is meant to be shaped like a tabletop, but are now shaped like a spine (skate park shapes). The front of each spline has worn down, you can see the shoulders formed at the edge of the contact area. The driveshell on the right has marking where the drive ring contacts the splines, but no wear.

I’m going to recommend a steel driveshell.

Just realised I posted a picture of a freehub mechanism on a fixed gear forum. This place has certainly moved with the times.

  • Joel

Oh no !!! <grin>

Here’s a pic of a threaded hub section for cog and lockring so we don’t go to fixie hell for tarnishing this site (fully of Reid’s and custom fluoro?).

HM, everything (King hubs included) is fit for a purpose. Marketers and Consumers both conspire to utilise things outside their fit purpose. In this case, the aluminium driveshell was not fit for a 100+kg powerhouse of a mountainbiker, particularly compounded by incorrect maintenance. This hub is 2.5 years old, but a steel driveshell (about $80) is on its way to make this hub better (for purpose) than new. All other internals are in perfect condition.

I have a set of Kings on two bikes, and other hubs on other bikes, claiming anything to be a bomb-proof, no-maintenance do-everything component is not reasonable.

  • Joel