I’d sell the Red group (with the old bike?) and/or get a new crank (FSA?). BB30s are complicated installs as they are, and although as a mech I’ve had no experience with the adaptor and therefore can’t comment on any trouble with it, I’d rather plop the cash on a new crank and sell the old crank. you’re deadset on keeping everything Red?
doing that will reduce maintenance intervals. stick your crank in, tighten it. you are done. if there is slop (as there sometimes is, as sram don’t make their axles regular lengths and there is a stupid amount of variation in frames). if there is slop, and you haven’t already put those seal things in, do it. tighten your crank.
this is the only tricky bit, if you put the crank and seals in and the bearings have too much drag, you will need a wave washer thingo, also pictured in the link above. take out the seals, put the wave washer in. tighten your cranks. done.
bb30 as a system needs more maintenance than a traditional shimano HTII system (although not a lot more than a gxp bb). deal with it.
glue in inserts are a horrible idea, they slip and creak and suck to remove/install. i have no experience with the praxis thingos, apparently they are good, but those wheels mfg thingos work perfectly for less money(i have installed well over 150 of those or similar things(buy the wheels mfg ones, plastic is a better material than metal in this application, it kills less bearings and they don’t have a tendency to seize like the alloy ones do), they work perfectly, it’s specializeds insistence on shitty glue in osbb cups that causes any issues).
The FSAs are really not that bad. They don’t sport the stiffest chainrings around and occasionally sputter up the odd creak but I can’t see how they’re ‘really bad’ for the price.
Great suggestion btw, I’ve never encountered these adaptor cups and have been skeptical of their efficacy. I would have thought allowances for play. Your explanation was clear enough. Apparently wheels mfg sells spacer units to correct chainline too so yeah for $30 they’re more than certainly worth a go
Your options are the Wheels Manufacturing cups or press in adapter. Praxis Works dont make an SRAM compatible version, something about the spindle lengths. Not sure about that Rotor one, havnt read much on it when i was researching earlier this year.
I think it depends more on if you want to keep the Red for the long haul or not.
If yes, invest in a proper BB30 crank/bearing set up, it will be worth it. Do it once, do it right.
I went the press in adapter, was good for abut 9 months, started to creak, i went to take out the cups and grease with copper grease and sure enough the sleeve had started to slip, i could take the cup out without the whole sleeve moving.
I only chose the adapter as i was still very new to the groupset and bike, but if i had my time again, i do go proper BB30 set up with SRAM.
Soon to build a CAAD10 which has a BB30 shell. Wanna use my existing Rival groupset which has GXP cranks.
Anyone got anything else to add to the above discussion? Should I use an adaptor, or spend the $$$ on new cranks? Would really love to not have to spend the extra money, but if the adaptors are shithouse, I’d rather know now before it causes annoying issues.
Cheers guys. Jase, I didn’t realise Praxis had a GXP compatible unit. Good to know.
All signs are pointing to adaptor. Guess I just need to figure out whether to go with WMFG or Praxis. Jase I know you said you had issues with the WMFG type. Do you reckon it may have been down to the way you installed or maintained it, or are they just prone to that sort of thing?
I’ve got a set of 172.5mm carbon Force compact 10spd BB30 crankset (pictured at the bottom of this post: http://www.fixed.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=36041 ) I’ll sell for $50 if you want to just keep it kosher. The bb’s I have won’t be much good to you as they are PF30.
Oh, and I think I might know which box the chainrings are in. If you’re interested I can have a dig.
Although it’s worth noting that 50/11 is a bigger gear than 53/12, so you only lose less than one gear in the top end, and gain a bunch on the low side. Or you can run 11-25 instead of 11-28 and get closer shifting gaps/shave a gram.