whenever i do a few skids my chain always becomes loose.
which mean i always have to pullback my backwheel and retighten.
i’ve also tried using the sheldon brown tutorial with the stack bolts tightening
the chain tension on a fixed gear is quite critical, and is regulated by moving the rear axle back and forth in the fork ends. If the chain is too tight, the drive train will bind, perhaps only at one angle of the pedals (chainwheels are not usually perfectly concentric). It should be tight as it can be without binding. If the chain is too loose, it can fall off, which is quite dangerous on a fixed gear.
Set the rear axle so that the chain pulls taut at the tightest part of the cranks’ rotation. One at a time, loosen up each of the stack bolts, and tighten it back just finger tight. Spin the crank slowly and watch for the chain to get to its tightest point. Strike the taut chain lightly with a convenient tool to make the chain ring move a bit on its spider. Then rotate the crank some more, finding the new tightest spot, and repeat as necessary.
This takes a little bit of your hands learning how hard to hit the chain, and how loose to set the stack bolts, but it is really quite easy to learn.
Tighten up the stack bolts a bit and re-check. Tighten the stack bolts in a regular pattern, like the lug nuts on a car wheel. My standard pattern is to start by tightening the bolt opposite the crank, then move clockwise 2 bolts (144 degrees), tighten that one, clockwise 2 more, and so on. Never tighten two neighboring bolts in a row. You may prefer to go counterclockwise, but try to get in the habit of always starting at the same place and always going the same way. This reduces the chances of accidentally missing a bolt.
Once you have the chainrings centered and secured, adjust the position of the rear axle to make the chain as nearly tight as possible without binding. Notice how freely the drive train turns when the chain is too loose. That is how freely it should turn when you are done, but with as little chain droop as possible.
didn’t really get that technique right…
so what are my options?
-better quality cranks/chain ring?
-learn the sheldon technique?
i am no expert - but have you checked your frame is straight?
like if the wheel is sitting at a slight angle it wouldn’t be getting maximum grip in the dropouts/track ends when you tighten up.
does that make sense?
yeah, i make sure the wheel is in dead straight every time i tighten it.
i thought the paint was the issue, but now its bolt on metal there is nothing in the way.
i think the chain tugs will be my best option.
would bsc, cecil, abbotsford have them?
hmmm, is there any chance that you may have a normal chain on as apposed to something for a single speed? i’ve had experience with them stretching a hell of a lot under skidding pressure. This is probably very unlikely but a possibility none the less.
so the size depends on the axle diameter and the thickness of your track ends. (Aluminum track ends are usually thicker).
These ones are fine for standard bolt on axles and steel ends. But check compatability first of course - I doubt 3/8" will fit on 10mm axles but will on 9.5mm, but you could file them out. MKS make the best IMO.