chain tensioners/tugs

whenever i do a few skids my chain always becomes loose.
which mean i always have to pullback my backwheel and retighten.
i’ve also tried using the sheldon brown tutorial with the stack bolts tightening

the chain tension on a fixed gear is quite critical, and is regulated by moving the rear axle back and forth in the fork ends. If the chain is too tight, the drive train will bind, perhaps only at one angle of the pedals (chainwheels are not usually perfectly concentric). It should be tight as it can be without binding. If the chain is too loose, it can fall off, which is quite dangerous on a fixed gear.

Set the rear axle so that the chain pulls taut at the tightest part of the cranks’ rotation. One at a time, loosen up each of the stack bolts, and tighten it back just finger tight. Spin the crank slowly and watch for the chain to get to its tightest point. Strike the taut chain lightly with a convenient tool to make the chain ring move a bit on its spider. Then rotate the crank some more, finding the new tightest spot, and repeat as necessary.

This takes a little bit of your hands learning how hard to hit the chain, and how loose to set the stack bolts, but it is really quite easy to learn.

Tighten up the stack bolts a bit and re-check. Tighten the stack bolts in a regular pattern, like the lug nuts on a car wheel. My standard pattern is to start by tightening the bolt opposite the crank, then move clockwise 2 bolts (144 degrees), tighten that one, clockwise 2 more, and so on. Never tighten two neighboring bolts in a row. You may prefer to go counterclockwise, but try to get in the habit of always starting at the same place and always going the same way. This reduces the chances of accidentally missing a bolt.

Once you have the chainrings centered and secured, adjust the position of the rear axle to make the chain as nearly tight as possible without binding. Notice how freely the drive train turns when the chain is too loose. That is how freely it should turn when you are done, but with as little chain droop as possible.

didn’t really get that technique right…
so what are my options?
-better quality cranks/chain ring?
-chain tensioners?
-chain tugs?
-learn the sheldon technique?

this isn’t and issue of stack bolts…

you just gota tighten your wheel bolts tighter!

they’re as tight as possible.

get a longer spanner/nuts with serrations.
a chain tensioner on one side could help, but it’s a bandaid solution

hmm how is a chain tensioner a bandaid and not a solution?
i’m talking about something like this:


May be ur dropout is full of dirt and grease?

Use chain tensioner…

i am no expert - but have you checked your frame is straight?
like if the wheel is sitting at a slight angle it wouldn’t be getting maximum grip in the dropouts/track ends when you tighten up.
does that make sense?

yeah, i make sure the wheel is in dead straight every time i tighten it.
i thought the paint was the issue, but now its bolt on metal there is nothing in the way.
i think the chain tugs will be my best option.
would bsc, cecil, abbotsford have them?

hmmm, is there any chance that you may have a normal chain on as apposed to something for a single speed? i’ve had experience with them stretching a hell of a lot under skidding pressure. This is probably very unlikely but a possibility none the less.

Yeah not sure, i run a ‘normal’ chain and it does fine.

any shop that sells bmx parts can sell you a chain tug

shouldnt cost more than about $10 unless you need some NJS with your skidz bro

nah i don’t think its the chain.
so i’ve noticed there are different sizes for each tug. how do i measure which one is suitable for my bike?

Before you go too far… You do have track ends don’t you? If your ride is a road conversion it’s not going to work with forward facing dropouts.

This will work

This won’t

yeah i have track dropouts, but not as nice as those. :evil:

Someone should buy my courage dropout :slight_smile:

but have you put a string-line around the frame? maybe a seat stay is slightly (and imperceptibly) bent…
sheldon will tell u how to run (and measure) a string line.

remember the bend (if there is one) could be vertical, not just horizontal…

i bought my bike in april so its relatively new. and it started after i did my first few skidzz. but ill give it a try.

how do i measure what size tug i need?

guys? :expressionless:

so the size depends on the axle diameter and the thickness of your track ends. (Aluminum track ends are usually thicker).

These ones are fine for standard bolt on axles and steel ends. But check compatability first of course - I doubt 3/8" will fit on 10mm axles but will on 9.5mm, but you could file them out. MKS make the best IMO.

ouch, they’re a bit expensive.
do any stores in the cbd area stock them or something similar?
i’m concerned with bmx tugs , won’t they be bulky?