You probably won’t be able to tell the diff, I couldn’t between 170-175mm.
Spin vs leverage, won’t be a huge diff esp. if you’ve got a good spread of gears.
Another thing to consider is toe overlap.
Also Q-factor is something to think about, I’ve got a Deore Triple on my cross/touring bike at the mo, and being narrow hipped I don’t like them at the end of a long day (least I think thats part of the reason, hopefully some narrower cranks will help).
Conventional wisdom says a touring bike comes with lower BB for stability, plus if you’re using mudguards or front panniers toe overlap can be an issue. Go shorter.
Front pannier strike shouldn’t be an issue, but toe overlap once you have mudguards could be depending on the size of your bike, I have overlap on my Cx turned tourer and its a 54ish.
Never understood all the fuss about toe overlap, always had it in the olden days! I would be far more concerned about long cranks low bottom bracket, crank hit going around corners- not good.
I have a low BB on my bike and tow overlap, neither are really a problem.
However pedal strike is very easy to avoid when leaning into corners, but toe overlap is a little harder to avoid (but still easy) when doing a slow upright turn.
But you might as well try to avoid/minimise if you can, and trying to minimise one helps both!
Also a low Q-factor crank will help with pedal strike.