Drivetrain advice.

I’m looking at upgrading my drivetrain on my track bike as in chainring (144 bcd), chain (1/8th) and rear cog.
Looking for something smooth, quiet, durable, affordable (I know these words rarely go together)

Are there any particular combinations that work quite well? All I know is that I can’t afford a phil wood rear.

I was thinking dura-ace cog, izumi eco track chain…

I had a search around for chain ring advice but didn’t find much.



For reference, what are you upgrading from?

Cycling Underground chainring, Dura Ace sprocket, any decent chain. Should be fine.

Not sure about the front chainring but it’s track specific.
KMC Z chain and Roselli track cog.
I’ll take a picture now

aka Fyxomatosis chainrings.

yeah what he said, CU chainring will last you tens of thousands of k’s.

best chainring you can get in my opinion

If you want a bit a bling, the Sugino Zen chainrings are swweeeet

much cheaper if you direct from CU

That’s my front chain ring, it might not even be worn. I’m pretty bad at working it out. Cranks are SR royals.

Roselli cogs are pretty good. Shouldn’t really need to upgrade that unless it is worn. Although it is nice to replace your full drive-train all at once. I ride a CU chainring, DA cog and a KMC Kool chain.

CU will set you back $70, but worth every cent. Cycle Underground Chainring Designs

If you absolutely need to save cash then you can get a TA chainring, DA cog and KMC chain all off Ribble delivered to Aus for $70ish. Good set up for not so much. But it seems to me that your current setup is pretty good, so if you’re gonna upgrade then you may as well go all the way and get CU.

Edit: for all you haters, replace ‘sprocket’ with ‘cog’ as you will.

I thought that was nigh on impossible?

I’ve bought 2 direct from CU with ease and good responses. Last one was probably about 18 months ago though …

How do I identify if my rear sprocket/front chainring is worn? They aren’t wave shaped which I thought was the common identifier. Can you tell by my previous image?

what do you mean? work out your specs. send an email. make the payment. and hey presto, chainring!

really? the last time we had this discussion on the forums, it was suggested that Cycle Underground was no more and that Primate Cycles now had the CNC router thang. maybe TC could enlighten us :stuck_out_tongue:

but yeah, Fyxo chainring, izumi chain, and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with roselli cogs

Izume or SRAM chain. CU chain ring, dura ace or euro Asia sprocket(I’d say phil if you haddnt already no no’d it) and a bottle of decent chain lube and degreaser with a couple of rags to keep them nice,

if you want a higher tooth count in your sprocket go phil seriously just do it!

forgive me if I’m wrong, but isn’t there more torque on a smaller rear cog therefore you’d want a better quality cog if you were going for a lower tooth count?

Hence why BMX racers (who put out high torque like a track racer) havn’t embraced the micro drive trend that Freestyle BMX riders have?

EDIT: I could be wrong, I’ve had little sleep this weekend and my mind is burnt out from uni.

At least in Bmx racing the micro trend will likely never catch on because other than the increased torque your chain wears a tonne and has less contact points. Bmx racing is all about contact points, the high end rear hubs have a zillion engagement points for your starting point at the gate.

BMX racers haven’t embraced micro because they don’t need chainring clearance over park benches and coping rails. Also because micro is super super dumb.

  • Joel

Didn’t gink mean buy Phil for more teeth because DA is max 16 tooth? That’s how I read it.