HG-700 11spd comes in 116 links?
Using a 40t rear cassette, a double front would work with both the GS and SGS rear mech. A 42t rear cog means a single front and the SGS rear mech.
On the topic of mixing Shimano road and MTB, I have just set up a 1X10 transmission for my cross bike (following Blakey’s advice, thanks again):
- 105 brifters (bought 2nd hand here)
- Alivio RD-M4000 9sp, long cage $50
- 12-36 Sram PG1010 cassette + Sram PG1071 10 sp chain $ 100
Only literally put this together last night, so needs a proper ride. First impressions are that it works okay, but not awesomely - shifting up is a bit sluggish. Adjusting cable tension doesn’t seem to get me to that point where I think ‘wow’. But, was cheap and might be enough for what I intend to do with it.
Looking forward to seeing the build!
random question…
why faff around combing random things? is there not a full group/matching group that is set up for touring folks?
(if not, why not?)
i feel like i’m missing something…
there is, it’s called shimano trekking, but it’s flat bar, and requires you to have front suspension, a trailer, 6 panniers and a flag.
if you want to go unsealed touring with droppies and can’t hack a ~1:1 ratio then you have to go special snowflake.
You’ve got my attention…
^^seems like a gap in the market that someone should figure out.
I have my original Sora triple on my grinder/tourer and will eventually get around to replacing bits, or the whole thing…it’s just a pain to have to think so much. i don’t want to have to geek out on a figuring a combination of things. would happily pay an extra $200 for a single group that i knew worked from the get go.
(i suppose that’s what the forum is for though…)
So by touring do you mean fully loaded 20kg stuff or a handle bar bag over nighter? If this just go Mtb 1x11/1x10 with brifters
If you’ve already got the stuff in the original post just use that. It’ll give you a low enough gear for the steep pinches.
It’s not the most elegant way (nicer to go smaller chainrings but what evs)
I would however consider ditching the 50t for a 46 so the high end of the cassette gets some use, otherwise you might barely use the big ring.
You can get a road sub-compact double by buying a road triple, selling big and small ring. Replace big ring with bash ring (or nothing) replace little ring with 24/26/28t .
That gives you 39/24{26} which is plenty low enough with a 11-32 cassette which is a standard with all road groups now.
yep, the fixed gear forum for all your geared touring needs! haha.
Least it’s not all about prams! #summerofstrollers
Summer Of Towed Babies #sotb
Summer of smug dads pushing well researched prams @sosdpwrp
This is now another pram thread.
adapt your triple to a subcompact double and add a 105 11spd groupset -11-32 cassette- (sell cranks and brakes)
adapt your triple to a subcompact double and add a 105 11spd groupset -11-32 cassette- (sell cranks and brakes)
Did find this on MTBR today:
I have the Di2 road levers/brakes with XTR Di2 rear 1x11 on my Cannondale SuperX. It works perfectly.
This combo will shift ANY 11 speed cassette (SRAM road/mtb AND Shimano road/mtb), so you can pick from any of them. I currently run 44t front with 11-40 XTR 11s rear
And a bunch of questions posted here on CRC.
Interesting to note that a response came back with
The spacing on the Shimano 11sp road cassettes is wider than that of their 11sp MTB, so a road shifter will not correctly shift on an MTB cassette.
When you’ve got 11 cogs jammed into such a narrow space, how could the spacing differ between Road and MTB that much that it wouldn’t work? It must be in the 0.1’s of mm differences.
^^ya see i don’t even know what that means.
or i kind of do but i don’t know how to find the “right” sub-compact double; and what if i want new brifters because the sora ones suck the proverbial?
anyway…i’m a little drunk and gripey.
(i’ll look into that and see if it’s worth it…)
Interesting to note that a response came back with
The spacing on the Shimano 11sp road cassettes is wider than that of their 11sp MTB, so a road shifter will not correctly shift on an MTB cassette.
When you’ve got 11 cogs jammed into such a narrow space, how could the spacing differ between Road and MTB that much that it wouldn’t work? It must be in the 0.1’s of mm differences.
Then I find something else that says the centre-centre spacing is the same between MTB and Road 11spd, it’s just the cable pull that’s different.
Now that bit makes sense IMM, the great the tooth step between the cogs, the more cable needs to be pulled to get the derailleur out of the way and back far enough to get the chain to go to the next cog.