How much is it worth?

I thought I would start a thread where people can get opinions on bikes they want to buy and what price would be acceptable to pay. I know that everyone is willing to pay different prices for different things but it may help give an indication if something is a steal or just overpriced junk.

Okay, so I will get the ball rolling.

My Colnago road frame is probably a little to big with a 58tt. According to Competitive Cyclist bike fit I should be running a 55.4 with a 110mm stem. So ideally I need a smaller frame. The bike will just be ridden on longish rides (20ish kms). I don’t need anything flashy, and after buying Jase’s sram rival gruppo I realised that maybe I need something less techy for my first road build. I have never had clipless pedals or road shoes so if I had sram rival I would feel inclined to make that upgrade. I stumbled across this Diamant Road bike.

A Diamant (Belgium) Reynolds 531 bike, nicely built and equipped with a full Campagnolo Athena group in very good condition. Zeus 2000 forks. Mavic MA2 rims, 3ttt bar and stem combo Rolls saddle and new (NOS) Wolber tyres.
Paint has a few touch-ups and scratches (mainly underside of top tube) but the bike is looking very good overall, check out the big pics here.

Dropbox - Photos - Simplify your life

Seat tube 58cm c-t
Top tube 56cm c-c

Yours for €400 delivered in the UK/most of the EU

he said postage would be €70 to Aus. So the bike would come to a total of $625.Is it worth it? Money is not really an issued and I would be able to sell the sram rival and the colnago to pay for this.

any advice would be appreciated, Thanks.

If it was me I would just use the Colnago. 600 bux is 600 bux. Much better than using down tube shifters, if you are only traveling 20kms the extra 2cm in TT shouldn’t really matter that much, especially if you can get a shorter stem.

Rival isn’t too techy, it is reliable and easy to use!

yeh, here are my measurements from CC.

Seat tube range c-c: 60.6 - 61.1
Seat tube range c-t: 62.3 - 62.8
Top tube length: 55.9 - 56.3
Stem Length: 10.3 - 10.9
BB-Saddle Position: 76.7 - 78.7
Saddle-Handlebar: 56.5 - 57.1
Saddle Setback: 7.4 - 7.8

Cheers mate.

I think if I buy an 80mm stem it should be good. I will grow some balls an get some road shoes and clipless pedals.

Everything will be overpriced junk unless you know what size bikes suits you best. Guesstimating with free online fit analysis can prove an expensive and frustrating journey. Consult a fit specialist who can actually see you on a bike as there are so many factors to consider that numbers entered into a database can’t account and adjust for. For most it’ll be money wisely spent.

Agreed, my point is if the most time you are spending riding is 1 hr at a time and you have no bad injuries no need to rush.
Bike fit is awesome though.
FWIW I think the cc fit is off anyway

I’m pretty short and CC fit tells me I should be riding a 55 st, I can only just stand over a 55.

Is that your way of saying your balls hang low?
Do they wobble to and fro?
Can you throw them over your shoulder
like a continental soldier?

Ahhhh yes that IS what I was trying to say, not low enough for balls over shoulder action though. On a different note don’t trust CC fit. What would I know though I ride a 51 with lots of post!

I agree with you too, you can tool around on a wide variety of bikes and mostly arrange the fit to be very similar. And I feel CC fittings don’t work for many. Things like age, flexibility, core strength etc are a big factor. I don’t think fitting has to be hard … for 90% of people it should be fairly straightforward, but there’s 10% that never really get comfortable or are riding bikes that might be doing them long term harm. For that you should consult someone who can advise by seeing you on a bike, doesn’t have to be a pro-fitter but at the least someone who understands positioning, bio-mechanics and rider style.

Don’t get stuck on the wrong bike.

My tip is stop and think hard about what you afford, need, want in this order.
Get a fit
Get a budget
Get what you want
If you do these three things you will never be disappointed in your purchase.
Then get a shortlist and we will vote hahahaha.

I have been researching bike fit a lot in recent times due to a knee injury, and without getting a fit, the most useful resource I have found is Steve Hoggs blog. While I haven’t seen anything about frame sizing, I changed my position significantly from the information on his site and it’s really helped. (Blog and fitting info)

On the SRAM Rival, I’ve just changed from 105 to force. It’s good, it’s relable, it’s well made. The next groupset will be either shimano or campy, I don’t likethe doubletap system.

fuck bike fit you really need to buy something that won’t get canned in the post your ride thread.

First post.
With some advice from a mate i picked this up off ebay.
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d

I never gave much thought to Sram, until I got a CX bike with rival on it.
Now instead of upgrading my roadie to more Shimano i’m going Sram. I love it.


yeh I am now looking forward to setting up sram. I heard it is nosiy, any problems?

Oh and for my first clipless experience would these be accpetible and easy to use?

Wiggle | Look Keo Classic Pedals Clip-In Pedals

oh and Nice Bundy:) he is a very highly rated frame buider. Post up some more pictures.


only got the photos that are on ebay. yet to pick it up.
pretty happy with the score

Cant tell any difference.

I’m really struggling to move past the double tap system, I’ve only had it fitted for a month or so. Hopefully with more use I can get used to it. As far as its workings go though, its bulletproof!!

I get less rub when cross chain’ing on the small chainring then with 105 and the trim on the big chainring is great. I’m told in the long run SRAM is meant to be quieter because the 1:1 pull on the rear derailer needs much less maintenance. I can’t really vouch for that though.