I am an idiot!!!

Ok so got a new cog from the local bike shop and asked if they could change it over. The poor mechanic could not undo the cog and broke two chain whips in the process. I decided that the 70 kg bike mechanic could not put on as much force as me doing skids with my weight over the back wheel (I’m 110kg).
It took a while but finally come loose.
So what did i do, but wheel my bike of the street into my house. IDIOT is polite way of describing my self. Now my 4 month old Hub is fucked the cog just sat and spined on the lock ring thread.
I have contemplated lock tite and rotafixing but am unsure of how strong this would be let alone that means that i am stuck with that cog for the rest of its life. The other problem that i see with this is my cog i steel and the hub aluminum, and in my line of work (plumber) have had lock tite fail between dissimilar metals eg brass and Galvanized steel
Any ideas?
Thanks hugo

“Idiot” is such a harsh word.
Kafufle is what you should have sait about your situation.

try loctite 271. worked for me on a hub with crappy threads. good luck getting the cog off, though.

Cool will try it, nothing to loose. Going to use a bottom bracket ring as a lock ring Rota fix it and try it out. If that fails looks like B 43’s are on the cards.

You think thats idiotic?
i just bought a wheelset with 120mm hubs to put onto a frame with 110mm spacing.

what a douche.

not as much of an idiot as de-lacing a wheel without removing the cog/lockring… :frowning:

probably a good time to be asking (as an ‘idiot’ thread)
but do 110mm spacings go into 120mm dropouts?

Spent money on powdercoating before making sure that bottom bracket would actually fit and match my cranks :stuck_out_tongue:

assuming either frame is steel this isnt a major problem… cold setting dropout spacing has been done for years. IIRC andy tc did it to produce his kenevans ‘conversion’ for this years cannonball (and i would suspect he wasnt the only one).

but its not something you want to keep having to do…

ok so i have cleaned the freewheel side of the hub with plumbing fluid so to prep it for the loctite. I am thinking that i want to remove the paint on the hub but just on the threads so to have true metal to metal contact. I tried running the new cog over it to remove the paint but this is looking like it will take for ever.
Is it necessary to remove all the paint?