!!!...LOCKRING...!!!

ok, might be easiest to do this from the start and make sure we get it all at once.

step one, take off everything you have fitted. lock ring, sprocket.

clean it all. really clean.

inspect the threads.
they should be sharp, fell defined, and not flattened out or run together. the threaded area should be stepped in to two seperate areas, one closest to the spokes with a standard thread, one closest to the frame with a reverse thread.

inspect the threads of the lock ring and sprocket.
same deal as the hub, clean, sharp, well defined, blah blah.

SMALL amount of grease on the sprocket thread, don’t grease it up like a $2 hooker. very light amount of grease just facilitate tightening the sprocket.

rotafix it. if not rotafix, then a big ass chainwhip. do it really tight. and i do mean tight. lean on that mother and crank it.

SMALL amount of grease on the lockring thread. see sprocket greasing above.

tighten the lock ring. and as with the sprocket, get stuck in and crank it down.

now inspect the gap between the outer edge of the sprocket and the inner edge of the lockring. if there IS a gap, undo the lock ring and fit the appropriate sized spacer.

retighten the lock ring.

wipe everything down check it again.

refit the wheel and if it’s still slipping, or popping off, go find a bike a bike shop that knows what it is doing and get them to look at it.

it is VERY rare for a lockring to split, pop off, undo or otherwise fail if you do your maintaince properly. most common causes of lockring failure are them not being tight, them being cross threaded, them not beng a good quality STEEL ring, or them being so old and munted that they shouldn’t have been used in the first place.

next most common causes are people trying to hang onto hubs long after they should have sucked it up and bought a new one. if the thread is mangled don’t use alraldite, locktite, plumbers thread tape, or a small amount of metal putty spread over the thread and recut. BUY A NEW HUB! go on ebay and buy a cheap ass sealed hub and survive a little longer. i swear, sometimes i think maintainance is form of darwinism. if you don’t look after it, you shouldn’t be allowed to breed. honestly people, what are you doing, you wander into the shop with six seperate pieces of a hub and ask if i can glue it back together? then get mad when i tell you to buy a new one, i should glue it back together just so you land on your junk and CAN’T breed, so no i won’t do… um, sorry, long day of dealing with muppets.

so, yeah, um, hope this helps…

THx alot man…really appreciated with you help :D…

Thanks for the tips Lupine

Pulled the whole thing apart tonight… It was the thread. Absolutely rooted, bare as a babies proverbial - Drive train nearly unscrewed again on the way home tonight just through some hard back pedaling. I think i fucked the hub a few weeks ago and todays random u turning cab in Elizabeth St was the last straw

When its a black hub and there is more bare metal than you can poke a stick at its probably time to replace it, and to think I was actually going to come on the sat morning ride this week - maybe ill come on the road bike

I thought I’d relate my experiences with cogs and hubs thus far/

I’ve never really cranked a lockring or a cog REALLY tight In my opinion), yet I’ve never had any issues with things slipping at all. I’m a bit of a fiddler, so I like to change my gearing and being not the most burly guy out there, I choose not to overly tighten my cog and lockring, for fear of them being immovable. I just tighten them up until they seem firm and they pretty much stay that way.

I do skid a bit (but mainly on gravel these days to save tyres), and although I have a brake, I do a deal of pushing back to temper my speed.

I run an old (late '70’s) Sunshine hub and I’ve never had a problem with it. Even though it’s had a bit of an argument with a chain in the past, it’s threads still function perfectly well

Could all these hubs un-threading and falling to bits be the result of newer, cheapish hubs that are relatively poorly made? So much so that over-tightening them does rip the threads off (or do other irreparable damage)?

Just a thought.

I think it depends on the gear ratio as well right? and also the weight of the person…

I am pretty heavy so that’s why the cog unthread it easily.

Cheers Lupine, great post.

i weigh in at about 100kg, in big fat bastard economy size.
i think it’s a good point about people using cheaper hubs and the quality not being there.
i swap gearings a bit as well.
i stripped a few hubs in the past 2 years, and now i’ve got round the problem in two ways.
first of all. for the 4 sets of wheels i have i’m running 2 sets of miche primato, a late 80’s durace and a campag. so all good quality hubs, well made and with plenty of thread material.
second of all, i’ve taken to using miche sprockets and sprocket carriers on 3 of the four sets of wheels. these are brilliant pieces of gear. nice wide threaded section, and rock solid fitting for the actual sprocket. means that i only ever have to ermove the locking ring to swap gearings.
you’re right in other respects as well. you don’t really need to crank it down totally to fit the sprocket and lock ring. if you are going to be conatantly swapping prockets, just use a chain whip.
but remember that ANY movement of the sprocket will quickly stuff the thread.
and also make sure you buy good quality sprockets. i had a situation recently where a $200 hub gave it’s life to protect a $20 sprocket. turns out the sprocket was 1/10 of a mm narrower that all the others i had and it moved not even 1/10 of rotation. dead hub in 30 minutes.
so keep an eye on what you use, and how you use it.

hey are you talking about this miche spocket adaptor?

Miche Quick-Change Splined Sprockets and Adaptor!


Do u know how much do they go for??