re-spacing 120 phil hub to 130

hi mates

how’s your summer been? mine’s been ok.

now, i bought a new frame and 'cause i’m a dumbarse, i just assumed my current ss/fixed wheels would slide right on in there, but they won’t 'cause they’re 120 and the new frame takes 130, crazy right?

so, anyone had any experience in re-spacing phil track hubs to 130?

thanks.

also, and importantly, here’s a pic of a dog.

Pretty sure you can just replace the spacers to make it 130mm, and I think Dan has some from memory.

oh and my summers been pretty good so far, thanks for asking.

ace, thanks.

Kits $70 ish from aspire or similar.

  • joel

Have done it a few times. Word of warning, one bearing gets popped out in the process of removing the axle which means you have to press that bearing back in again. I use a socket that’s just about the same size as the outer race of the bearing and tap that with a hammer to get the bearing back in. Wheels still spinning for dayzzzzz after many applications of this technique. Except the very first time when I destroyed the bearing… but, er…

Or just let Dan do it.

have done it you need 2 8mm allen keys and the appropriate axle end caps (i swapped my 120mm’s with a guy who bought a 130mm spaced set but wanted 120)

see 2nd page:
http://www.philwood.com/philpdfs/FSAinstructions.pdf

edit again: when i did it i used the 2 alen keys and one cap came loose. i then put on the replacement cap, tightened, then tapped the opposite allen key with a hammer which loosened the other original cap without needing to get the axle out to access the flats in the middle. you can try this and if it doesn’t work take it to dan if you’re not confident with further dismemberment of the hub.

thanks champs

i’m pretty sure i made my phils 120 after ordering 130, you can have the bits for nuthin

i literally did this yesterday.

Use the Quick Release bearing press method in the Phil instructions. Easy

Did you buy a Nature Boy? #partybrand

great dog.

I have a set of those spacers too, I think, but I’m not home for a while. Read the instructions from Phil, it’s piss easy and really quite hard to cock up because Phil do things properly. It can literally be done with eyes closed.

Yes.

Nice. Does it have the new not-so-fragile dropouts?

About those instructions above - there’s a better way. No need to push the bearing out and back in again.

  • Start with the two 8mm allen keys each end, undo one threaded spacer, and replace it with the new one.

  • The new spacer can be tightened up with the same two allen keys. No need to do it mega tight because it’ll be between two dropouts anyway, and you’ll want to reverse the process one day when you go back to a 120 frame.

  • To replace the other spacer, you need a way to keep the first half still. Chuck the wheel into your new 130 spaced bike and tighten up the first axle bolt so that it’s clamping the dropout. You can then loosen the second spacer, replace it and tighten it up again.

I tried this but it still kept undoing the new shorter spacer… couldn’t figure it out… perhaps just spastic mechanic-skills

As long as the axle is clamped the to dropout more firmly than the second spacer is clamped to the axle, it should work. If the spacers have been cranked on super tight though… I guess it’s not going to work.

Nice puppy !!! What a face.

and btw … http://www.fixed.org.au/forums/f15/nature-boy-30191-post538341/#poststop