Planning on parts of a groupset, not a whole one. And even then, not planning on it right away, as I’ll be running it SS for a bit. Need to soften the blow to my back pocket.
New model SP is out, the 9, but it doesn’t have disc mounts.
What brakes are you looking at running?
Initially tektro cable discs with MTB levers in the secondary cross position.
Eventually RS-685 with BR-785 calipers unless hydro/mechanical 105’s come out before I get there.
I’ll bust out a complete parts spec soon.
Hoping to make it. What supplies would be needed in addition to the usual 90km road ride stuff?
Planned build list.
Front wheel: HED Belgium Plus to SONdeluxe black ano with black DT Comp spokes and DT Prolock Brass nipples.
Rear wheel: HED Belgium Plus to White Industries CLD black with black DT Comp spokes and DT Prolock Brass nipples.
Tires: Challenge Grifo setup tubeless with Stans.
Brakes: Shimano RS-685 levers to BR-785 calipers to 160mm Shimano Icetech rotors.
Gearing: 6800 series Ultegra, CX Chainset 46-36 with bottom bracket, Medium cage rear derailleur, 11-32 cassette, HG700 chain. Tossing up between Ultegra 6800 front mech which apparently can only be used with Ultegra shakes so may not work with RS-685 shakes, or a Shimano CX70 front derailleur.
Cockpit: Chris King Headset, Salsa Cowbell 2, Thomson stem & seatpost, Salsa liplock seatclamp, Cambium C15, M780 XT Race pedal.
Commuting extras: SON Edelux 2 and SON Tailight.
Still working out fender and front/rear rack & bag combos. I currently use a Topeak Drybag on a Topeak QR Beam rack on the seatpost of the Dambala and it suffices for most days, sometimes too big, sometimes not big enough. Would like to go with something similar sized on the front. Occasionally have to take work home and the laptop is 34cm x 23cm x 30cm and it only fits in the drybag diagonally vertically and doesn’t allow for a waterproof seal. Backpacking it doesn’t work as I don’t always have a backpack available at work or home when required, also broken L5 means I prefer not to have things sitting on my spine.
rs685 are 11sp, so they work with the newer longer arm 6800/9000/5800 mechs, and if they can shift a 52/36 then they’ll shift a 36/46. But, reports indicate that 6800 shakes do play ok with CX70 mechs. Don’t sweat it.
Cane Creek forty is a better headset than a king and the value proposition is killer. Cane Creek 110 if you want real fanc.
There are better stems and posts out there than Thomson. Ritchey / PRO PLT / etc.
If you switch to either a real rack (Tubus Vega/Logo etc) plus pannier or a good front rack plus bag setup your bike will def handle better and carry as much or more than the trunk bag cantilevered on a beam off your post.
Just out of interest, why is a Cane Creek better than a King? I’ve run 40 series headsets for years with no problems and have always wondered why CK are so expensive. Nobody’s given me a decent answer yet.
Sorry if hijack.
With the recent change to a split conical centraliser instead of the o-ring, a king is now less bad. But you’re paying a premium for fancy colours with no performance benefit.
Now if they had proper tapered roller bearings or something, maybe it’d be worth it.
Musa and anodised tax
I’ve got a basic level Cane Creek on the Dambala at the moment, install was fine until the shitty plastic top cap broke apart when tightening the nut. Replaced it with the alloy one from the GT Peace 9’r and haven’t had a problem. Chris King is a just because Maaike has one on her balance bike, daddy needs one too.
Package turned up today from Bike24.
SONdelux in black with centre lock disc.
Nice! Matching my pair.
Off to Gear this week to pick up my WI CLD rear hub and HED Belgium + rims.
Time for some wheel building.
Was planning on DT Champ 2.0mm spokes and DT Prolock brass nipples in black.
why would you spend so much money on sweet rims and hubs and then cheap out on straight gauge spokes?
Have used DT Comps 2.0mm on the wheels I built for the Kenevans roady, but as the Wolverine is intended for Commuting and CX I was looking for something a bit stronger to survive me hucking gutters.
What do you suggest?
2/2/2 spokes will build a marginally stiffer wheel, but that’s about it. For equivalently skilled builds, it won’t improve durabillity
I’d go 2/1.8/2 Comps again. Supercomps if you’re fly. CXRays if you’re balleur.
But the most important part is a properly built, evenly tensioned and stress relieved wheel.
Well FOA is all about balleur isn’t it?
I can walk into a shop today and get DT anything, but NFI where to get CXRays.
I mean, CXRays are great, but they’re also $$$
Nothing wrong with a regular DB DT/Sapim.
Yeah just did an ebay check, over $4.50 a CXRay spoke from one GB seller or $3 from the french. Prices are all over the place.