Starting bike

hi,
im new to the scene and am looking for guidance.
i am willing to spend around 1500 (AUS) for a bike (pref a good frame which i can keep for a long time.)
I am going to be using the bike 5-6 days a week to get to uni.
If anyone has any recommendations regarding a frame/ parts to get for this price please let me know… (id prefer to build the bike myself ie seperate parts/frame than one complete bike ie- bianchi pista.)
thanks
colby.

you could make 2 ood bikes with that amount my friend

great. :smiley: can you give me some suggestions?

Well if you want something cheap to start with, you could do worse on a frame like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Gemini-retro-old-school-Road-frame_W0QQitemZ260360225110QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Sport_Cycling_Frames?hash=item260360225110&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318

It’s not special, but it’s only $75, and the dropouts are perfect for fixification.
Get some decent componentry and you’re set. What does a decent wheelset cost these days- $350 for Deep-V?

If you are just starting with nothing at all you will get much more for your $1500 by buying a complete bike.

Also, if you’re going to lock it outside, don’t spend $1500.

i want to get a decent bike because ill be using it for over 3-4 years as my main mode of transport…

If you spend that much on a commuter you won’t be using it for 3 or 4 years because it will get stolen.

ok… so, what would you recommend based on my plans? (i said that price because ive been looking around and it seems decent bikes are quite expensive) but if you can suggest a cheaper alternative let me know!
thanks

there are two options you have here
you can buy yourself an already made bike like an se, surly or charge, which are all reat bikes
or you can build one up yourself
if you are going to biuld one up though you need to be patient
your not going to find all ur bits and pieces at exactly the right time
and don’t listen to all this negative “dont lock it up if it cost that much” bs if you have the right locks and comon sense u’ll be fine
start by searching ebay for frames and cranks and sich and then just head into a local bike store

thanks heaps,
any specific brands i should look at for specific parts? frames?
a friend of mine rides a fixie and told me to buy njs parts, he said they expenisve but last.
lemme know what you think?
it would be great to get some recommendations on brands regarding frames/ bikes.
cheers
colby.

As many on this forum will tell you, NJS just means a certain component has been approved for Kieren racing. This doesn’t necessarily mean they are any better than any non-NJS track components.

Indeed, there are many occasions where non-NJS components are more appropriate, like 32H hubs etc or actually, any non-Japanese track components (apart from a couple of rare exceptions, don’t go there…)!

Whether a component has NJS or not should be the last consideration for you. You’ve been hanging out with too many hipsters my friend… :stuck_out_tongue:

Specific components that are good and not overally expensive IMO:

-Velocity hubs (cheap, reliable)
-Deep-V rims (people diss them, and they’re heavy, but you have to admit they’re reliable and bomb-proof)
-Sugino messenger cranks (cheaper than 75’s but functionally the same)
-Cycleunderground chainrings AKA Fyxomatosis chainrings
-KMC chains
-Deda handlebars and seatposts
-Gatorskin tyres (good puncture protection for other people…)
-Oury grips (as long as you wear gloves)

Both of my bikes put together don’t even come close to 500 dollars in value but I have suffered multiple theft attempts, hope that helps.

However, feel free to kit out a vintage track frame with NJS parts and lock it outside in the same place every day if you really want to,

Your friend sounds like an idiot.

Yes, they are heavy. They’re also weak, and bend easily, due to the poor aluminum and construction.

They do however come in a variety of bright and exciting colours. Which is what ultimately is the
main consideration for many people when purchasing them.

Bring on the haters.

I think you need to ride a bit to learn what you want, and it also depends on if you mind riding on something a bit rough. All I can do is you what I did when I started off with a commuter build - I bought a cheap old 10-speed and a cheap set of track wheels, pulled the bike apart, cleaned and regreased the bottom bracket and head set, put it all together and rode it. After riding it for a while I learnt what needed to be improved and improved it.

It is a case of accepting that you aren’t going to achieve the perfect build first thing. Internet advice can only take you so far, you need to build something and learn from experience.

i was hoping on doing that with parts… but i want a frame which will last as i plan on keeping it for a while.

A piece of steel kept in decent condition will probably outlast us all, so there is no need to worry on that count. The gemini linked to earlier in the thread would be a fine frame to start out on.

Proof of this? The only velocity deep v i’ve ever seen bent is mine, and that bore the brunt of a ute attack.

I have one with two dents and a bent sidewall and another with a bent sidewall. I’ve seen several with bent sidewalls, they bend easily. The braking surface is bad, concaves and doesn’t last at all. I’ve seen splits at the spoke nipple, misaligned, badly joined seams and they’re overly heavy. The heaviest deep dish rim I’ve come across. The rotational weight is extreme and obviously noticeable when compared to a lighter deep rim. I have Campy Atlanta and AC Cr-420. I think Velocity as a whole makes pretty shit stuff. The hubs are okay, but they’re branded formula’s anyway. If you like it that’s cool, I’m not going to rave on about it. Just what I’ve observed, not trying to be difficult, this time.

Edit: Oh, and the colouring peels off as well.

I have one with two dents and a bent sidewall and another with a bent sidewall. I’ve seen several with bent sidewalls, they bend easily. The braking surface is bad, concaves and doesn’t last at all. I’ve seen splits at the spoke nipple, misaligned, badly joined seams and they’re overly heavy. The heaviest deep dish rim I’ve come across. The rotational weight is extreme and obviously noticeable when compared to a lighter deep rim. I have Campy Atlanta and AC Cr-420. I think Velocity as a whole makes pretty shit stuff. The hubs are okay, but they’re branded formula’s anyway. If you like it that’s cool, I’m not going to rave on about it. Just what I’ve observed, not trying to be difficult, this time.

Edit: Oh, and the colouring peels off as well.

well now im glad i just bought one :stuck_out_tongue:

Get a pair of Aerospokes to roll on.