still needs a bit of werk

Quail in terror before my new ride.

It’s spuds Werkhoven, reynolds 653 tubing, columbus dropouts, reynolds BB shell heaps better than my old TIG’d steel POS (probably doesn’t hurt that its the right size too)

Sugino 75/shimano 105 cranks, superbe NJS chainring
$12 brake levers from abbotsford and 27.2 ritchy post which brings us to:

there was a crack at the forward most point where the seat stay attached on the RHS because the previous owner (and me for a week till I went to abbotsford for a proper binder bolt and they sorted it out) was running a 26.8 post which had obviusly allowed some flex in the seat tube seat stay arangement and lead to a crack forming.
after a bit of file werk it looks like this:

Originally the seat stay was just sweated onto the seat tube, I’ve built up a fillet and filled in the stres raising changes in section where the crack started hpoefully it holds together, it did actually seem a bit stiffer when I took it for test ride (probably pulling myself there)
Just needs some new paint Werk (and me to stop making crappy werk puns)

Holy shit dude- that’s some serious repair job you’ve got there!

Nice job son! Was there any warping of the seat tube after welding?

Absolutely a nice job.

I’m just in the process of learning to braze myself, hoping to be able to do such things and to eventually build my own bike.

That’s really nice.

It’s the first time i’ve brazed in over 10 years and that was to make a cross bow in tech class in skool, and it cracked. I’m slightly amazed my self just got a MAPP torch kit (~$80 if any one is interested) from Bunnings, could really do with a fine flame tip but did OK

There was a bit of deformation to the ID of the seat tube but I’m pretty sure it was there already (it was only where the crack was).

I only got the steel orange at best and only a ~2cm round area at any time so deformation wasn’t too much of a concern.

Took it for a run today and it didn’t snap :smiley:

Now I’m gonna fillet over all the TIG welds on my old POS fit track ends and sell it on e-bay as a fillet brazed one off NJS inspired genuine australian made track fixed fixie SS geared hand crafted custom geometry super predictable awesome skid machine for $1000 :evil: :evil: :evil:

well it’s been almost a year and my bodge job repairs are still holding together (and i still havn’t painted the bike)
I have made some additions that greatly improve the ride

Soooo many brand names in so little space

its a conspiracy i tells ya… a shadow conspiracy bmx hub (which required a little judicious fileing of the drop outs for the 10mm axle) purple ano just like all the hot MTB parts back in the day when MTB’s weren’t welded together in taiwan but CNC’d from solid billets of ano aluminium in the good ole US of A

Remember kids…

for all your frame repair needs.
Hmmm might need a top tube cover to protect the man bits from those cable eyes, lime green should go nicely with teh rest of the bike :smiley:

Now runnig front brake only. the left lever is now filed with chewing gum to stop ratteling :-o

deep V rims am i a hipster now? Am i? Am I?

holy link pins and plates batman its a KMC 710SL
THe obligatory FGG money shot with more product placement

some info on van werkhoven If anyone has anything else let me know.

I also have a few questions about the frame.
What are the pros and cons af a monostay?
The frame has pump pegs but also realy short chainstays and tight geos what would such a frame be used for?

Additional: I got bored at work and attacked the bike with an inclinometer and a spirit level. With the rear wheel all the way forward in the drops (running 49:20) the geometry is 75HT and 74ST which is pretty steep is it not?
With the wheel most of the way back and running 49:17 (probably where the wheel’s supposed to be) the angles come out at 74HT and 73 ST.