Suzue Pro Max - Sealed to Loose ball conversion

QUESTION.

If i was to purchase a suzue promax sealed bearing hub, could i convert it to loose ball?

If so, HOW?

I’m hoping so.

Why? A decent sealed bearing is not far off the quality of an equivalent cup and cone hub and are 1/100th the maintnance. Not to mention that most conrversion are a pain in the bum them selves…

just my 2c

-Garth

What he said.
Just pop the seals off if you like.

simply.

so I can drop a ball and run with light oil!

Are the good sealed bearings as fast as this method?

The difference in resistance would be minimal, yet the differnce in maintance would be huge.

Don’t do it dude, put the hub down and step away from the cone spanner

Don’t drop a ball. It is old trackie legend that it drops rolling resistance but is actually counter-productive once the bearing is under load. You can remove seals and run oil lubrication on sealed bearings if you want.

Okay,

so going on all of this - why do Shimano still make cup and cone track hubs?

And would it be silly to have a rear hub that is cup and cone and a front hub that is sealed ?(due to current stock levels)

Shimano stiil make cup-and-cone hubs across all disciplines, not just track.

A sealed bearing new is always tight straight out of the factory, to allow for wear over time (If they were tuned to the ideal rolling tolerances straight out of the factory, they’d end up being way too loose once they wore over time.)

For that reason, perhaps Shimano believe that a tunable cup and cone hub aloows for a better rolling hub for the whole life of the hub, as it can be adjusted as it wears?

Their seals are pretty good, so you don’ t have to worry too much about gunk getting in. My XTR hubs have been through all sorts of muck and still roll smooth and fast.

I don’t think it would matter if there was a different bearing was front and rear - I’m pretty sure you wouldn’t notice! (and your rear wheel wouldn’t overtake your front with the frame in the way! :slight_smile: )

I’m presuming those ‘current stock levels’ are because Suzue no longer exists and Matt has only limited stuff left?

yeah - due to no longer existing.

Usefull info is the diacompe purchased all the tooling from Suzue, so will be making more track hubs soon!

Not many people seem to make a 24 spoke track hub anymore. Matt has a couple (CF version) and there are some of the normal promax I have found in the UK (not the carbon ones). But they only have loose in rear and sealed in the front. They are out of stock with the opposite of each.

So I’m weighing up the cost of the carbon ones against the non-carbon ones that are different.

I’ve never had sealed bearings on a track wheel, so wouldn’t really know what they are like.

Aren’t the races on loose ball hubs part of the hub cast which are then machined and polished. I’m pretty sure thats how it works and so there is no way of actually putting loose balls into a sealed bearing hub beacuse it doesn’t have the cast in race.

Yes - the diacompe hubs that Matt has look exactly the same as the Suzues, except they’re black.

For the cost of the CF versions - why not go for something else? DA perhaps? Is 24 spoke count crucial?

YUP

ha ha, sucks to be you!

…the rims you’re lacing them to must be pretty special?

I can offer you those 36H Fiamme ‘Hard Silver’ tubulars that I got from Phantom on your advice if that makes life easier for you!

No, steel races are pressed into aluminium hubs. Replacement cups can be fitted to aluminium hubs but are difficult to get and annoying to make. Yes, really cheap steel hubs have the balls running on the inside of the hubs.

I think so.

I’ll post some pics when I have decided what to do, and which set of rims I am going to use!!!

NJS demands maybe?

A big reason is that cup and cone bearings cope better with misalignment, even such minor misalignment as the axle flexing over bumps.