The Climbing Thread

Ok guys.

I need to buy a rope and some quickdraws.

I want to be able to use them for both sport and trad/alpine (is this realistic?, should I just buy a rope for sport climbing and use that until I’m ready for trad and other things), I think this means wire gates for the quickdraws and a lightish 9.5-10mm single rope. I don’t really have any idea where to buy them from, can go to Mont or Mountain designs locally or buy off climbing anchors/amazon maybe.

Any suggestions for which products and where to buy them from?

^No idea, Aeons, but Bogong in Melb sell heaps of climbing stuff and have the most knowledgeable staff of any outdoors shop I’ve every been to so you could try them?

I’m no sport climber and pretty much only boulder but I wasn’t aware that you needed different types of rope for sport and trad…? I might be wrong here.

But from chatting with the other guys I climb with Mammut is a pretty popular choice that seems to be fairly affordable. A young guy I climb with just got a 60m Mammut one from Mountain Designs recently, apparently Mountain Designs have some of the better pricing for Mammut in Aus.
Stuff like Sterling is on the upper end and are meant to handle better.

If you haven’t checked here yet - http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/climbing
They do great comparison reviews for all kinds of gear - rope and quickdraws a well.

Yeah MD has a Mammut Galaxy on sale for $200 but it has a tonne of mixed reviews.

Trad ropes tend to be a bit thinner/lighter as you have to lug them around for multi pitch etc.

I’m just going to get a 10.0mm sport rope though.

I currently use a Tendon 70m 9.7 as my primary rope for both sport and trad. A bit long for the shorter routes but there’s always multiple ropes around when we’re out anyway. Never take it indoor, have a separate and much shorter gym rope.

Never done any alpine climbing but would check with user dalai - he might be more knowledgeable in that area?
You’ll want a dry-treated rope for alpine and likely climb with twin ropes instead of a single.

Re quickdraws - grab whatever you can afford. For trad you’ll need some extendable ones.

Mont in Fyshwick has a selection of climbing gear if that helps?

Wish I had more to say than “sounds awesome”, but this does sound awesome, and i really like rope. let us know what you land on, and why!

You’re the second person (that I know in person) to suggest a similar tendon rope to me and they’re available on climbing anchors so I’m going to grab either the 10.0 or 9.8 ambition or the 9.7 master for $30 more (I think this is what you have).

With quick draws the plan was to get some nice wiregates and then I can swap the 'biners off the dogbones and onto adjustable slings for trad so I can use the same ones for both.

Climbing anchors is good - if you’re grabbing multiple things (rope, draws and sligns for instance) send Steve an email, he might do you a package deal.

I got my Tendon rope half price at a climbing comp - however they seem good value at RRP as well. I like the dry treatment on mine. Feels like it stays clean longer but haven’t climbed in the rain/snow with it.

I get 15% off from the ANU mountaineering club and free shipping :slight_smile:

I used to trad climb on 2 x 9mm ropes in the UK, makes it easier to manage rope drag and reduce shake (which could dislodge gear). A single rope can get snarled very quickly.

That was almost 20 years ago though, things have probably changed since then.

If sport is in the mix then you need a single rope. And if you are going to buy only one rope go <10mm and 60m, so something like 9.7mm x 60m would be perfect. With a 50m and you’ll find yourself dangling a few metres above the ground trying to rap in a lot of places (eg Thailand, if you ever go), or really stretching the pitch in some others. And for diameter, you’re not going to want to carry anything over 10mm for alpine - it’s simply too heavy and bulky.

That said, I always use 8.6mm double ropes for alpine and trad multi-pitch. A double rope is in my view pretty essential kit for alpine. On many routes you can get away with just carrying the one which saves a lot of weight and space, because one 8.6mm is perfect for glacier travel, low angle simul-climbing and low angle pitching. And if you’re needing to abseil down the route you will need a second rope anyway (you’re not going to get down very fast when limited to <30m abseils), and the second double packs small.

Same goes for any multi-pitch (whether sport or trad) - you’ll need two ropes for a lot of abseils (except in Thailand, where you have rap points at under 30m). Even at Araps you need two ropes to rap down in many areas - eg Watchtower face, Ali’s.

In Melbourne go to Bogong for advice. They carry the full range and the staff are the most knowledgable in Melbourne.

EDIT: also, for quickdraws, buy a wiregate/solid gate combo. There are still a lot of places with carrots, especially alpine and also in the Blue Mountains, and you can’t safely clip a bolt plate with a wiregate (also buy yourself some bolt plates, and always keep maybe 2 or 3 in your chalkbag - you don’t want to find yourself at a belay that has carrots and you have no bolt plates, although you can always use the wire of a nut on trad). All my quickdraws have a wiregate on the clipping side and solid gate on the other (unless I absolutely know I won’t need it and need to be really light, in which case I just make up my draws with wiregates only for that route - I have a LOT of spare biners).

Also, if you’re doing trad and alpine you’ll want to make a bunch of extender draws (or alpine quickdraws) with 60cm slings. Get at least 6 in my view (in alpine I tend only to carry extender draws, because quickdraws are mostly way too restrictive and can pull out your gear). So find your favourite wiregates and solid gates and buy some of the thin dyneema 60cm slings to make them yourself. And then make sure you know how to wrap them properly, if you don’t already know: Essential Skills: The Alpine Quickdraw - Climbing.

//youtu.be/IRsPheErBj8

Awesome advice Diddy. I did end up buying a 9.7 60 m rope, taking it out to the bluies this weekend (heard mention of these carrot things). I’ll find some quickdraws like you described soonish. Plan is to just try and climb sport every weekend for the next couple months (actually feasible thanks to the uni club/carpooling) and then go to Araps over Easter to work on my trad skills, NZ in August for the ice and mixed festival and then maybe return again to climb Aspriring in December or a Thailand sport climbing trip.

Long term plan is a relocation to Squamish (got a summer job lined up) or Vancouver (or any N American town close to mountains that has a uni that will take me) next year (unless I hike the PCT).

Good stuff. Do a TMC if you can in NZ if you’re new to alpine. Essential for core skills. And be careful on Aspiring. Too many people come unstuck on the descent. Don’t take the Ramp if late in the day and the snow is soft - again, it’s easy but if you slip on the slush it’s almost impossible to stop yourself going off the edge. Too many people lost there. Just keep going down the ridge - slower, more annoying, but safer.

Your best bet for a first season in NZ is to get a plane or chopper up to Centennial hut. Spend a few days there, then trek over to Pioneer Hut for a few days. Lots and lots to do. Also some good short rock routes in the area.

Yeah I did a v. basic course at the Ramshead just to see if I liked it (crampon techniques, crevasse rescue, self arrest, snow anchors etc). Keen to do a more advanced course and could really do one anywhere in the world (Nepal, NZ or Canada/US).

For now getting really confident on multi-pitch trad in Aus will give me a good foundation for rope systems.

I reckon a climbing thread would be awesome eh. There’s some great info here. Any mods able to shift posts over?

Done. I tried to get all the climbing posts.

Thanks for including my homer vid.

Question: Can anyone here climb their age in Aus grades?

I’m adding it to my goals for the year and feel like I have a slim window before it becomes impossible/something I’m not interested in.

I’ve climbed outside once (excluding bouldering) and can lead a crimpy/balancy 18. Got till November to hit 22 haha.