This is good news, although a bit pricey. What derailleur do that recommend to use with it? The medium cage only goes up to 32.
Edit, just looked it up. The RD-R8050 works with it, but is Di2.
Edit again, RD-R8000 mechanical: http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/road/shifting---braking/rear-deraileurs/rd-r8000.html
I reckon the new R8000 might work, it looks like a better shape than the 6800 medium cage.
Sram 10sp hydroR came out as S700 series after the Red ones all leaked and were sRMA’d. X9 mechs are discontinued, but GX replaced it if you can’t find NOS/used. As an example, 46/30, 11-36 works with a medium (technically just out of range) cage GX/X9 and a 6700FD with the hydroR or 10sp cable shakes. CX70 FD would be nicer still.
11sp hydro could be done as a 2x like the above, or a 1x with rival1/force1 allowing 11-36 (med) or 10-42 (long).
sram 10mtb and 10road 11road are all exact actuation and cross compatible (IIRC I had problems with 10road shakes and 10mtb FD though). 11mtb is xactuation and not compatible.
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wolf link / oneup pie plate cassette is an option to boost the low end of the range
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Mixing 10sp cranks/rings with 11sp shakes/FD is probably ok, the latest shimano 11sp road stuff has wider set chainrings IIRC for better 135mm chainline. That means that a granny/middle combo would be quite far in and the chainline in the high gears would be worse. If you had a square taper crank you could just run a wider spindle to compensate. Don’t forget that chainring spacing is closer on 10/11sp than 8/9sp, so you may drop a narrow 11sp chain between the rings.
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respidering sram cranks is definitely an option if you can find the spider at a reasonable price. eg a 104/64 (as the 120/80 rings are much more expensive) MTB spider on the S900 cranks.
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di2 is out of your price range? mix road and mtb and get the exact shifters, mechs and cassettes you want.
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Bottom line, you’ll have to commit to at least part of the system and work from there and swap out what doesn’t work. Or wait a year for shimano’s gravel group.
(shimergoing campy flat mount (the post mount ones appear to have disappeared between announcement and launch) is an unknown, they changed ratios for the latest 11sp stuff from memory)
You can find Sugino OX601D for not ridiculous prices and fit whatever 110 and 74 BCD chainring setup you want. Q-factor is 145mm. I’m running 39/24 rings, shifting with Campy veloce levers and front derailleur.
Before I put the Suginos on I ran an older Campy Mirage triple square taper with a BBG bashguard on the outer ring. Also ran 39/24 on that. Worked well.
But mine is also Shimergo so I can run Shimano MTB cassettes. But you probably don’t need that because you can get such large road cassettes now, as MikeD says.
So… I’d always thought of Di2 as an expensive solution to a non-problem. Looks like this time it might be an expensive solution to an actual problem. Looking at prices from ze Germans: the brifters cost about the same, adds about $300 to the cost of mechs, plus whatever batteries and junction boxes and wiring looms I’d need (this is completely virigin territory for me now, but looks like another $500 there easily). The cost of the planned build has gradually increased as I’ve been pulled in by “ooh shiny”. I can see myself spending that kind of cash on a SON dynohub with really nice lights and charging gadgets, but electronic derailleurs just don’t excite me.
I’m starting to understand why touring bikes usually end up with triples and bar end shifters, and gravel bikes are often spec’ed with 1X. I think I’ll go for one of those options. Everything else starts pushing the bounds of compatibility just a little bit more than I’m comfortable with. I’m very much a novice bike mechanic and don’t want to buy a heap of components only to find out they won’t actually work together; it’s usually hard enough for me to put components together when are are supposed to work!
Thanks again everyone for your assistance, especially Blakey, Mike and BigAdz.
Sorry to come in late to this party, but don’t write off Shimano hydro mechanical so quick.
You can pick up the shakes/calipers fairly cheap now, chuck on a CX70 front mech and 5800 rear (both cheap). Only tricky thing to get is the crank, and the Sugino OX-series come up often enough to give you hope. It’s all off-the-shelf Shimano stuff except the cranks, and they work as well as Ultegra-level.
Disclaimer: above is exactly what I’m running, and it’s great. I have 44/30 with 11-32, but would go to a 36 rear if loaded.
What are shakes?
Shifter plus brakes? aka brifters? I think I see what’s going on here.
Cheers for the info heavymetal, especially the “exactly what I’m running, and it’s great” bit. You’re right, 30x36 sounds ideal for a touring bottom gear.
They’re like brifters but they bring all the boys to the yard!
This, plus a thread about touring, MTBs and drop bars. You’re going to fit right in here.
lol. I was a bit concerned that posting this here everyone would just tell me to run singlespeed, but rolly told me this place was really beardo.org.au. Seems he’s right!
Can recommend Shimano m785 cranks if you’re not fussed by the wider Q. I run mine with a 42/22 ring setup. Inner ring can run between 22-28, and outer can do 36-48 (using either double outer or triple middle/outer). Rings are cheap and easy to replace. 20t jump aside, shifting is pretty decent (I’ve been using this for almost 2 years now). I use mine like a 1x with the 42, then drop into the little ring for long/loaded climbs. SLX fd does the job with an 11-34 in the back.
Using 8sp shimergo though (obvs not hydro)