Hmm, you can just put a freewheel on a fixed thread, yeah it only uses half the thread as usual, though (neglecting spreading of force via the lockring) your track cog only uses half too, and is under much more stress.
Or you could grind down your axel. I would give you some Ghetto cred for that.
yes did google it, thats how i found out about the wood hub, problem is, i know they make a 110 spaced hub but im not sure if they have a 8mm axle as it doesnt say anywhere on the site.
Phil wood hub doesn’t a have a regular axle, the spacers/washes for the nuts will most likely be 8mm for a 110mm ‘njs’ type hub, but you should ask Phil Wood that.
Filing the track end isn’t such a big deal, if you want to keep it original that’s noble. If you drill a hole in it though, I will slap you.
Depending on which hubs you decide to end up with - there are conversion kits for 110mm / 8mm rear hubs… ( they also come with 100mm / 8mm front axles too - your njs frame will require 8mm front axles ).
I know dura ace 7600/grancompe /novatech/pw all do 110 hub sets…and both shimano (DA) and grancompe sell a shaft kit that replaces the 100 9mm/120 10mm - comes with washers/cones/spacers etc…
so if you can’t bear to coldset or file the keirin frame…that way, you’ll have a set of hubs that are convertible to fit 120mm or 110mm…if switching frames.
I drilled the Rauler !!! Though it was after I’d welded gussests onto it, I think that voids all natural beauty Although now it has like a 80degree head angle, fully sick n shit.