They are if you get the spoke length 100% perfect (or slightly too long). Otherwise, they will break at the head of the nipple eventually. You need the end of the spoke to poke up at least to or past the nipple’ screwdriver flat. If you go too short, the head of the nipple is not reinforced by the spoke and they break off. You can’t cheat like in a brass nipple and run the spokes shorter.
You also need to prep the spokes/nipples/rim well, make sure there are no sharp edges/dags from when the rim was drilled, and use something like copper grease or weak thread locker in the spoke threads to try to stop galvanic corrosion. Oil inside the rim too, the alloy nipples have a tendency to grab (gall).
1500g is not that light.
I reckon you could drop an easy circa 100g going stans alpha rim, double butted spokes, dt pro lock nippes (alloy) and a light(ish) hub set.
Thats not to say 1500g isn’t resectable.
I would strongly recommend not using revs rear drive side if you’re planning on lacing up near 110kgf…use comps. The Circus Monkey hub hasn’t got great L:R tension balance, to get the tension in the left you need to tweak em up on the right. I have learnt my lesson already…
Good call Gemm, I’m yet to personally build a rear wheel of that spec/lacing pattern so it’ll be a rapid learning curve.
You still recommend that lacing pattern for that spec’d wheel? I’m now considering going back to building both wheels 2x
Yep, 2x will be plenty 32h (I have done a set of 28h 2x for Adelaide’s fastest CX rider and they’re working for him - he races on em
However for revs drive side, if tweaked to 110lgf are close to their load limit, and they start non-elastic deformation nder any more load and just get longer and longer (like chewing gum). SO I have a few Revs that are about 2-3mm longer than the rest and have a slight pig’s tail spiral in them! You’d never keep them true unless you’re some skinny lighteright person who never goes over any bumps
yeah, although the original intended lacing pattern would have been fun to build up, I think I might just do 2x all round. Just to keep it simple, I’ve never had problems in the past with 28h… 32h can only be even stronger.
It’s light but not LIGHT. My XC wheelset weighs in at under 1600g and that doesn’t excatly has a light hub set. (IMO heavy hubs don’t really matter)
[Stans Apline Rims (32H)
Hope pro 2 hub front
Hope Pro 2 ss/trials rear (10mm bolt up)
DT swiss double butted spokes.]
Saying that, if I was going to be racing cyclocross I’d be aiming for a 1500g wheelset. Something a little more durable I think would be nice and sensible in a sport like cyclocross.
