Fitting a 130mm hub into 126mm spacing

Hi all,
New here, and about to embark on a single speed project. I got this 753 frame with a 126mm spacing. Some people say that I can just chuck in a 130mm rear wheel without fear.

However I have read that 753 is very thin walled, and should not be cold set. Will putting in the 130mm rear wheel cause dangerous stress to the frame?

Can I also respace the rear wheel to 126mm? The rear wheel I have in mind is a Shimano R500 wheelset that I have.


Just stick the wheel in. 4mm over 450mm of chainstay is only 0.9%.

753 aint that thin :slight_smile:

However, make sure your dropouts are parallel when spaced to 130mm. ie, check the dropout is flat on the locknut when the wheel is in the frame. Otherwise, you will be clamping a ‘stress’ into the whole affair.

It will work but you’ll probably have some trouble keeping good chain tension because the dropouts won’t be parallel.

Get the frame respaced to 130mm. I’m not sure that the chainstays will be 753 anyway. It’s probably the main triangle that’s 753.

I dont quite understand the bit about chain tension and the chainstays being parallel. Could you please explain a bit more?

What about replacing the 4mm spacer on the non-drive side with a 2mm spacer? This way the deflection of chainstays will only be 1mm on each side. The downside is that there will be a greater disparity in spoke tension between the drive and non-drive side.

I’m guessing you mean replace the 2 with a 4, or else theres some form of quantum physics im not aware of.

Why woouldn’t you just take out the 4mm spacer all together and redish the wheel 2mm? It could be done in 15mins with the right tools…

The dropouts should be parallel, not the stays. If the dropouts aren’t parallel then the track nuts/skewer won’t be flush against the dropout face, which may cause the wheel to move in the dropouts, thus altering chain tension (and possible wheel alignment).

Spoke tension has nothing to do with axle spacing.

Do what Chris said, remove the 4mm spacer and redish the wheel.

Ok thanks all for the replies.

Will be posting more newbie questions … as I am just embarking on building a single fixie

It always starts that way, but then you’ll end up with a house full of projects in various stages :wink:

Just be careful when re-dishing the wheel. When you re-dish the wheel you will have to release tension on one side, and the versa, tighten the other. Not only is this not coshure, but it will create a bias in the wheel. Basically as the drive side will become "over torqued’ in comparison the wheel will loose strength and integrity.

Best bet if this is to be done correctly is to re-calc the correct spoke length by rebuilding the wheel. S?pose depends whether your building a ‘work horse/piece of brilliance’ versus a classic A-to-B pub bike to smash out a few low key k’s.

Also isn’t the R-500 a q-release wheel? Best to be bolt on obviously or have i missed something there?

Good luck with the project.


Grinners I must disagree with this advise. We’re only dealing with 2-4mm here, so there won’t need to be any full rebuild or spoke length calculations as the nipples themselves will only be moved a minimum. Also as far as spoke tension bias goes, the normal multi geared wheel has a natural bias to the Drive Side (DS) of the hub to compensate for the dish. When converting this hub to suit a fixed gear the hub moves to the DS and the rim shifts to the Non-Drive Side (NDS). In doing this you actually even out the spokes tension between the DS and NDS , thus creating a stronger more resilient wheel alround.
Also quick release? It aint that bad, ask JP!

See Thomas,
I told you this site was a eternal spring of quality (free) info!

No, your absolutly right Christof. Good point.