My new frame just arrived and I went to remove the Shimano 600 put on the Mavic Headset on to find that the steerer is short… The current 600 headset has not got the lock nut on top as there is not enough streerer length… The streerer doesn’t look like it has been cut and looks original.
Can anyone shed any light on this and or what to do?
Will this headset come loose?
This is the be my Track only bike so no street riding… even tho I mis spelt Steerer in the Heading…
Yes, it will come loose. The idea of a locknut is to lock the two against each other with friction on the faces and tension in the axle/steerer inducing compression on the two, and thus remain in place on the axle/steerer/etc.
Search for the lowest stack height HS you can, or take the fork to a builder for a steerer replacement/extension.
shiiit, it’s only just hanging on there, even without the locknut.
short of a new fork, you’d need to find a low stack threaded threadset, which i think is a pretty rare item. tange levin maybe, but still probably not low enough. you could also mill down the top of the headtube a little if you’re desperate.
I think the shimano 600 has a stack height of around 37-39mm? and I know Tange make a 33mm stack height headset. But I think you will need more then 6mm?
The CK gripnut should do the trick, it is designed to solve this problem. It is fairly low stack, and only the adjusting nut needs to thread onto the steerer. The locknut is then held on by some kind of sleeve clamp thing, so it doesn’t matter if the steerer isn’t long enough. Pricey, but I’d imagine getting the steerer extended/replaced would be as well.
Yes Mavic were very different in there thinking with this group… Unfortunetly I am moving to Rockhampton today and wont be able to move on this build for another 2 weeks… The Mavic bottom stack is smaller than the Shimano 600 so might pick up 1 or 2 mm so it may just be able to clamp on.
This is all true, I’ve had my dad (a boiler maker by trade) extend a steerer tube on a mountain bike I owned as a youngster.
Get a second set of forks, cut the current steerer about half way down, weld on the length of new steerer required and then off you go.
Much easier than trying to gain precious mm with different headsets.