It’s about the position of the hub and brake caliper. If you use horizontal road drop outs, you can tension the chain no problem, but the caliper might not interface with the disc properly.
For their marketed benefits… ease of maintenance, weight, durability, etc. To try something new. This is probably the feature I would drop first, just because i don’t know much about belt drive performance. If anyone haas seen a robust review, please drop it in here.
I’m aware of the rear triangle split requirement for belt drives… All OTS belt drive bikes have a split. It’s not just so the belt can be replaced, it’s also so the belt can be installed in the first place.
It’s on the list of wants… But it’s not a requirement. Disc and Single speed are requirements.
I’ve checked out the spot rocker, thanks. The rear dropout set up is pretty cool. Very interested to see bikes like that even if MTB as, if i go the custom route, there are features I can copy. So, bring on SS + disc MTBs… No eccentric BBs!
Good to know. I heard that the sliding dropouts acn slip and that the rockers are better at holding still.
PM sent.
Custom build with these?
You’d need to drop the belt drive, but gain the option of converting to geared at some point.
Also, the rear disc caliper is on the outside, which is one thing i would like on my pompetamine. The inside position is just annoying to properly align the caliper when the wheel is towards the back of the dropouts.
Have you seen the monstercross thread on mtbr.com? Loads of similar setups there.
Monstercross thread
Tyres and clearances? My pompetamine takes 35 plus fenders, or 42 without. More clearance than that would be pretty cool, but not sure how it works out with frame geometry? Your bike is going to be massive anyway 
The paragon rockers in the OP have a derailleur hanger option. And all paragon drop outs (the pair you posted as well) can be used with a belt drive by using their ‘chain stay kit’.
I was favouring the rockers because the caliper was on the inside because it looks cleaner… I hadn’t thought about adjustment issues - but again, the rockers don’t have that problem. Pompetamine looks like a good cheap option though, sans belt.
Will check out the monster cross thread now.
Not sure on detail but you could consider steel with an inside and outside ED coating for rust-proofing? Not sure where to get it done but I know All City (and others) claim it’s the shiz and coat their frames inside and out. Might limit paint options, though.
NS Bikes also so this ED coating. I’ve got two of these as polo bikes and they get beaten badly. Still no rusting.
The LBS mechanic is building a Trek SOHO as a belt drive SS commuter with discs. Possible work checking out.
Run a crabon fork on an alu frame and it could be a good option.
Had a look at the rockers, they look pretty good too. For both rockers and sliders the disc/axle moves with the mount, so no readjustment issues there.
On my pompetamine i can swap the rear freewheel from 16t to 18t without swapping the chain but it still requires taking the wheel out, taking the freewheel off and re-adjustment of the disk caliper anyway, so its not hasslefree at all. I thought of getting one of those double white industries freewheels, but that would still require re-aligning the caliper, so don’t feel like it’s worth it. It would work quite well with sliders (apart from maybe fender clearance issues), but maybe not with the rockers?
Rockers seem like a very good option. Good review here: Rockers
Note the comments on heel clearance and recommended s-bend chainstays.
Found the info I was talking about re the rockers,
When using calipers like the Avid BB the cable housing points directly at the chainstays making a nasty little bend in the cable, you can see from this image
Can be worked around but is a good idea to keep it in mind
@BrakeFree: That photo requires logging in.
Poop,
Here it is:
No problem if hydro, which I’m hoping will be an option soon.
user x-campbell (who many of us know here) just came back from 5 weeks of touring in the phillipines on a belt drive (with internalyl geared rear hub).
he claims it is one of the best things he has tried. his biggest complaints with it was that he found he had so much extra time at the end of the day where he would normally be doing maintenance.
Workaround with a V-brake noodle?
Ah I see. It is in the most rear position on the photo though, and wouldnt routing the cable on the bottom of the chainstay solve it?
Still a better setup than my pompetamine: When sliding the wheel back in the dropouts, one of the caliper adjustment bolts/the caliper mounting bracket hits the rear stay, making proper adjustment a pain in the ass unless the axle is in the 50% (or so) of the dropout closest to the bottom bracket.
That is enough of an endorsement to sway me. Oh wait, was he the guy with the white and gold frame?
Good idea.
Have you used the ENO caliper mount? i.e. is it worth pissing around with fancy (heavy and expensive) dropouts when an ENO combo would do the job just fine?
More details: It’s a Surly LHT modified by Ewen Gellie, running a belt drive on a Rohloff hub. PM him for photos.
Never used discs full stop ;). But a pivoting/sliding d/o that adjusts the chain tension and the caliper at the same time is going to be a lot less hassle. Depends how often you’re changing gear ratios I guess.
One more thing to consider, and DaFrog can chime in here because I’m a little rusty on my stainless corrosion knowledge (see what I did there?), is that stainless is susceptible to pitting and stress corrosion cracking in chloride environments (i.e. coastal), and this is a much more insidious and aggressive mechanism than the general corrosion that steel will suffer in the same environment.
High Ni/Mo content stainlesses have good pitting resistance, I have no idea what the makeup of KVA/953/XCR alloys are though, apart from 953 being a maraging stainless so it’s likely to be ~8% Ni & 2% Mo, much lower than Duplex SS at ~22 & 5%, but better than 316 which is usually the minimum spec for coastal use.
All I’m saying is, don’t discount a propertly protected steel frame (plus, your aluminium alloy BB/seatpost will sacrifice itself for the frame 
) or expect that because it’s ‘stainless’ it’ll never corrode.
qft - and stainless does have a lower tensile strength for the same wall thickness. Being diligent with traditional steel frame will reap rewards.
On an earlier note, what makes it Monster Cross? Road double (compact or otherwise) and square (ish) geo?
If I put a triple and discs on the Nikisi will it still be Monster Cross? 
Taken on board. Given stainless is going to be about the same price as Ti, surely that is a better option… ‘the most noted chemical property of titanium is its excellent resistance to corrosion’.
As for a properly protected steel frame… in my experience, spraying with fish oil, etc, is not sufficient in this environment, but that may not be what you call proper protection. This ED coating of frames is new to me.
I’d say monster cross is between MTB and CX… geared, SS or otherwise.