ask damon what adjustment is necessary to enable separate adjustment of cables. as far as i know, the dimension have something built in to make them fire at the same time.
the dimension ones are pretty fiddly compared to a normal lever. the receptacle to hold the knobs on the cable is on a pivot, which means that it wants to auto adjust to make up if one isn’t as hard. i.e. it wants to hit both at the same time. The ones Erin is talking about are much nicer for personal adjustment and making it pull one better than another.
I agree, the world of bike polo discovered and abandoned these levers years ago for exactly this reason. Regardless of the barrel adjusters the pivot inside will equalise the pull.
If these levers allowed bias then Lucky, Rik and others may have never even started their own mods.
I tried a dimension lever off the shelf for the first time at Bench day 1 and it messed with me till I removed it halfway through the day. (I had some help Since then I’ve made the mod and it’s much better.
To use a dimension lever for polo you may need to bias the back, you can do this by either adding a rubber dampener adapter thing to your front cable (Tali has done this whitey | The League of Bike Polo but I dont think he uses this forum)
BUT this is what I did.
You can add a set screw into the lever to push the pivot off centre. Below are the photos for the mod, if you do this be very careful to drill straight, I misjudged it a little, half a mm further off alignment and I would have stuffed it entirely.
FYI. I use my lever on a rear cable disk and front v-brake which are of course both long pull.
What you’ll need
A set screw any thicker than this M4 would require a hole too big and the lever would probably snap.
Where to Drill
Be careful to only drill through a part of the lever with sufficient material around it to retain strength.
You can see in the photo above and below that there is much less material to work with so your drilling needs to be precise and your set screw needs to be quite small.
Cutting the thread
Dont rush this or you could break the tap and it’ll be stuck there.
2 finger version
Feels much nicer, next one I make will be one of these.
The result? When playing I can brake and skid normally at moderate speeds. At higher speeds, squeeze harder, the front brake applies and I can usually stop much shorther than whoever is alongside me.
Gyspy, ive got two other dual lever versions which im finishing up this weekend. I’ll bring them up to the tourney this month if you want to check them out. If you’re in a hurry, Damon’s technique here would work slightly better than as it normally is.
I got a message today from Steve asking about freewheel installation! That’s it, the last “regular” player in Sydney has gone freewheel. This is the end of an era folks! Here’s to the future!
i machined up a prototype at work using the Odyssey London Mod which seems to work pretty well. I was thinking of getting a large batch machined from a supplier similar to the St Cago version here:
or like this
I think both these can be improved somewhat. Is there any interest out there for a large batch to get made? For the rod and plate for a small run I’d say we could get the price for less that $15 each kit??? If we get on it quickly we could have them made within 2-3 weeks (possibly in time for melbourne tourney).
Hey Johnson. Thought I’d put in my 3cents as a fellow bruiser rider… so I’m guessing you’re running the standard 440 u brake mounts ? I found long pull levers to not have enough pull, along with the fact that the brakes aren’t super effective… but I found this :
It has a super long handle and is super adjustable. I modded it a bit - pulled out the cable for the engine cut-out and inserted a bolt into the hole which acts as a grub screw to bring the lever closer to the bar. And they fit on my atomlab bars. I know its a bit big and bulky, but i think its pretty rad.