Miki, I’m sure you know this, but others can file this away in your brain grapes for Spyres:
Nukeproof sintered
Clarks sintered
Lifeline sintered
Swissstop sintered
Shimano G03Ti (need to grind the sides down a smidge)
Also watch out for M515 pad height fouling on ice tech rotors with spyres, and not all rotors are metallic pad compatible.
Back to shortsie’s sickass bike.
Quick question, a friend of mine is gifting me some Paul canti brake levers for my birthday
The spyres would work with them yeah
Cos they are short pulls?
Spyre’s are a ‘road caliper pull’ brake, so yeah, they should.
I chucked a set of Brakco pads on when the originals wore out and they’re heaps better:
To answer the question you asked, yes, spyres were meant for drop bar levers, so road pull levers and canti levers are suited.
Now, I hate to be this guy, but I’m going to be that guy…
Could your friend buy you a set of shimano hydros instead for less money and more function? (T6000 / M6000 / M7000 even MT501/MT500)
In a market filled with terribly shitty (BB7R) to acceptable (CX77 / Hayes CX Pro) to WHY (hy/rd) road pull calipers, as you have flat bars, you can take advantage of cheap, reliable, excellent shimano hydros and never adjust your pads for wear or suffer the tink tink tink of a rotor hitting a non floating pad.
If you just like the look of the paul levers, no wuckas 
On this topic, and sorry to intrude Shortsie - I have a similar frame (ritchey ascent with post mount brakes) - I bought some new SLX hydros but don’t have rotors, post mount bolts or rotor bolts.
As someone fairly new to the world of disc brakes, is there anything in particular to look for for rotor specification? Or bolts?
rotors depend on your riding style and hubs. 160F&R is probably ok. depending on the PM type, you might need a PM to PM adaptor eg if it’s 140mm native. some rotors aren’t for sintered pads, higher end ones add things like weight saving alu spiders, heat sinking fins, floating rotors. (caveat emptor, some calipers will foul ice tech rotors) width can vary a little within brands too. if you have CL hubs you can get either type (use an adaptor with 6 bolt). If you have a weird old Coda or a rohloff hubs you’re on your own.
if the PM adaptors don’t come with bolts, go buy some M6 socket head cap screws, grade 8.8 or above is more than enough, long enough for enough thread engagement, but not so long it bottoms out, add purple loctite to the threads. Some adaptors/calipers need spherical washers above the caliper when the bolt path isn’t perpendicular to the caliper. avid/sram sometimes have these below the caliper for caliper alignment, don’t get it backwards.
If you are new to all this… go to your LBS. They’ll have the bolts/adaptors/rotors etc and are less likely to cause you to lose some teeth.
@Sh0rtsie most important question, black or silver?
@AL9000 black.
Looked at purple. but a bit OTT.
what do you mean when you say “foul ice tech rotors”? how does that present itself?
From my archives:
TRP’s use of the taller M515 pad standard also means that they foul on Ice-Tech rotors! The compound extends beyond the inside edge of the brake track, and hits the spokes of the rotor that connect to the spider.
Spacing the caliper away from the hub with some washers can fix, but if you have unswept pad above the rotor, those bits will eventually touch and you’ll have no/poor braking.