New Build Advice

General CX/MTB
21

Yeah

22

I guess my point is it’s a compromise for what? Slight weight saving? One less lever to think about?
It just feels like a pointless trend.

23

Why ride a fixay??

I jest.

Why not though? One less thing to buy, set up and worry about when riding, I guess.
I get your point, but I think it works

24

I built up a Swiss Cross last year with the same plan in mind, but also for cx racing.

I went with:

  • Shimano rs685 Hydro Discs
  • Ultegra 6800, but with Praxis 46/36 cranks
  • Shimano CX75 hubs (great option if you want 28h) and Hed Belgium Tubeless rims

Things I’ve learnt:

  • The hydro discs are nice, but not mind blowing. By the time the new bike was ready, I’d finally got the Paul MiniMotos dialled on my old cx bike (low spring tension was the trick), and racing one after the other, I actually preferred the crisp grabby MiniMotos.

The MiniMotos are great brakes - super robust, lightweight, and easy to adjust. However, for long fast road descents, the hydro discs give much better modulation and require less hand force. If you’re loaded with gear discs would be a clear choice, but if you and your bike are light, I’m not so sure.

  • I ordered a short cage rear derailleur. Probably should have gone for the mid length in case I want a bigger cassette for loaded climbing.

  • Tubeless has been great. Definitely fewer flats. If you’re fussy about tyre selection though, bear in mind that there are fewer options available, especially once you consider rim compatibility.

  • I’m slightly regretting the carbon fork, as it limits future rack/bag mount options. Obvious trade off between racing and touring though.

  • Glad I didn’t go 1x on the front. Glad to have the extra range on longer dirt rides.

  • The Swiss Cross has no rack or guard mounts anywhere. I thought carrying gear might be a problem, but apparently strapping bags to your bike has become a “thing” lately, and there are plenty of bag options around to give a naked CX frame enough carrying capacity for an overnighter.

25

Good sum-up Alex.

Also, to steal and paraphrase the old vegan joke:
how do you know if someone rides 1x?

Don’t worry, they’ll tell you.

26

heheh

this has been really informative!
thanks all.

27

I can see the 1x arugment for MTBing, because you simply don’t need all those gears. My set up has a lower GI than the 2x I was going to build, but I’ll be left for dirt on the long flats as my top is about 70gi’s, which is the same as ma fixeh.
And weight and mechanics saving too.

EDIT: Sh!t, just read heavymetal’s post…

28

I guess I don’t ride ‘proper gradients’ eh.

29

I am tremendously disappointed in 5800 front derailleurs so far. The trim functionality is non existent on all the bikes (mainly specialized at work) I have seen, and the lever feel through the shift sucks buttholes as well, nothing nothing nothing nothing everything. 6800 / 9000 or nothing. I will add that many of these bikes are mech/hydro, so it’s the same lever with different mechs, and 6800 is considerably better, as is 9000.

30

Trim on mine works, but I get what you mean about the shift.

31

cable entry angle has a bit to do with it, it’s not great on specialized bikes, is probably be better on others.

32

Way to deliberately misinterpret. Just cos I don’t see the point of 1x doesn’t mean you can’t use it for whatever you want.

Also, that’s the first I’ve heard of poor shifting from 5800 front mechs. If it ain’t great I’ll just switch to 6800 or equivalent top-pull mech.

33

It’s only $15 or so difference between the two, why not go the better one

Edit: only $5 difference at wiggle

34

Mild thread hijack. Are the 5800 cables the same as the snazzy 6800 ones? And would the different chain have anything to do with the shift?

35

Having mostly ridden 2x setups (apart from my bmx as a kid) I had similar qualms to yours before trying 1x. I feel I gave it a proper go to say that it works, at least for me, and that I can recommend it to others to try. I have no intention of changing that setup to a 2x. For the intended use, it just works.

36

Ugh, it was a lot more than that back when I bought mine for my non-existent bike. Nice to have the option for later on.

37

You’ve been spending too much time with Ian!!!

38

Have to agree, went 1x just cos I could. Running SRAM w NW ring and clutched RD. I like it, clutched RD makes for a super quiet chain too which is nice. Its not significantly better or worse than 2x in my experience after 1000km on it.

39

yes same cables, and no i don’t think it’s as much to do with the chain, it’s mainly lever feel that is terrible, I’m going to say it’s the materials the mech is made from. It won’t actuate at the pivot, just flexes the arm to the clamp bolt. poo.

40

TL;DR

Hydro performance is much better but there are still some question marks around reliablity with both Shimano and Sram’s brifter offerings, and effective bush fixes are limited.
That said, I’d run hydros if you were mainly doing long day rides and overnighters. If it seeing a lot of multi day riding I’d go with a good quality cable setup (ie Spyres)

Easy peasey. Definately do it if you’re running MTB tyres or fat gravel tyres under 50psi. always much easier to do with “tubeless -ready tyres”. Other option is to use latex tubes and inject sealant into them. This option allows you to use any tyres and run low pressures without the issues of snake bite punctures.

I’m a SRAM fanboy, so I’d say Force CX1. I switch between a 1x10 and 2x10 Rival setup on my cross bike and I only need the 50T when I’m doing group road rides and they grind downhill too.

DT Swiss 350 hubs FTW.
Rims depend on your intended tyres. Stans are light but wont do pressures above 40psi (designed for MTB). H+Son are heavy but dependable.