On the tubeless note: even if you’re not planning on it straight away make sure you get TL ready rims. The tyre tech is getting really good for road tyres and will only get better. All the big guys have new tl rims coming out all the time, and they’re suitable for road pressures. Fwiw I’ve got a23s on my roadie with schwalbe ones tubeless and I’ve got a few thousand trouble free kms with no punctures.
And h+son aren’t tl ready, though some people have got them to work.
SWEET
such good advice all.
currently looking at
- tubeless - especially given the amount of single track it’ll get.
- mech disc brakes
- leaning toward 1x11…but i think i’ll see how the cost of things works out.
will be a new bike thread soon enough.
I think if you are able to destroy a hydro line while riding then you’ve also destroyed your housing, and who carries a spare inner AND housing with them while riding?
If you are set on cable brakes, at least get full housing cable anchors instead of spilt housing stops so you can upgrade to hydro later.
Bang on AL9000, I’ve only heard one story of hydro line failing whilst in use, and the guy was doing trials type stuff with XT brakes
I’m going to make a wild call here and say that you’ll enjoy riding this new bike so much that you’ll want to explore further with it, you’ll start reading about lightweight tents and frame bags, and all of a sudden you’ll be setting off with a fully loaded bike for overnight dirt road trips.
If that sounds at all likely, I’d consider a crankset that will allow a tiny chainring in future for loaded climbing. Something like the White Industries VBC for example. I thought they were just Prollyfodder but they’re actually really versatile.
Speaking from experience here, in case you couldn’t tell.
Currently building up my Niner RLT9 Steel with RS685 hydros and 105 5800 drivetrain…given the level of negativity with these components, I will try to give a totally non-biased assessment of the set up when completed (next week). In my eyes, this is a mid-budget build, and I will assess it as such…but it is the longevity that interested me as well.
Cheers…Graham
^^that’s the one thing that makes me think just getting force and calling it a day.
i love it on my roady and am super comfortable with it.
i just kind of like the idea of something different for this.
those vbc cranks are interesting in that regard. will talk to my man about his thoughts.
Yep, and so you can run full length compressionless outer makes the brakes feel and work better.
everything good but if you get mechanical discs I will inform the proper authorities.
Blakey already knows about this thread.
Sounds like a great build. Re tubeless, I personally haven’t felt a dying need for it yet, and I do a fair bit of gravel. I do have a tubeless ready WS with Belgium rims but couldnt be arsed so far to set it up as tubeless. I just don’t get to that stage where I get lots of flats regularly enough to make me hate tubes. I guess my point is that you can very much start on a build that will evolve as you go, no need to make all these choices right now.
1x makes a lot of sense, 1x11 will be expensive if you buy a full groupset, you can always give 1x a go by setting up a 1x10 fairly cheaply if you have bits like shifters lying around. If not, pairs of 2nd hand 105 shifters seem to turn up fairly often. Obvs if you go 1x11 chances are that it’ll be disc brakes of some sort.
Re hubs - sure CK are exxy but they’re pretty nice, I love mine. I also run cheap 105 hubs on the cross bike and find them dependable and smooth as long as you keep them well greased and don’t do the cups crazy tight. Those are a great bang for your buck.
If you do go mechanical, I’ve got an unused pair of 105 5800 shifters available for sale.
Ok, thanks for all the tips. build is going ahead like this;
Rival 1 1x11 Group with Force RD.
HED Belgium Plus to DT Swiss 350 tubeless
TRP Mech Disc brakes.
Woundup CX Carbon fork.
And other things to fill it out.
Gonna come in at about the same price as my road which had full Force and CK Hubs to H+Son Arcetypes.
(Basically save a couple of hundred on wheels…spend it on brakes/group).
Fortunately brad does a GREAT deal on his frames that makes buying quality bits worthwhile.
Have decided to chuck some rack mounts on the rear and if in the future i do some of the touring i keep alleging i’ll do I’ll get a steel fork make up with mounts for the front too.
Deposit is down and i’ll be building it up with my buddy so hopefully will learn a thing or two.
HMC gon’ be mad.
:mad:
Any chance you can pony up the extra money for an enve fork?
44mm / tapered head tube will give you a lot more options for good carbon disc forks, and you can use a different crown race to run a straight 1 1/8" steel fork easily.
i like the look of the woundup, that’s the main thing.
this frame will be built with this fork in mind so i’m not worried about fork options really. if i change it at all, it wil lbe for another custom one that i’ll get the seven guys to build for me.
is the only concern the future options? anything else particularly infuriating by this decision? (not something the builder nor anyone else has mentioned, outside of the headtube size implications)
Wound up is old tech. They’ve been making them for 20 years and, well, now it’s a 20 year old design.
An enve has continuous fibres from the tip of the steerer through the crown and down the legs, strengthening the weakest part of the fork (crown area) by not having an alloy crown and discontinuous fibres.
Enve disc with 350mm tapered steerer is lighter than a woundup with a 300mm steerer, and it’s actually cheaper. (don’t know what wholesale prices are like, but I assume the difference holds)
If you have to have a 1 1/8" steerer, you can get a Ritchey WCS monocoque carbon disc fork too. Also cheaper and lighter than wound up.
It’s your bike though, so you have to live with the look of it.
Have a set and don’t regret the intial outlay one bit.
all done just about!
will give it a proper photo shoot and it’s own thread maybe. it’s sick.
Awesome. Love it.
Black spacers for the stem?