New CX Build

I’m interested in opinions on a few components for a new build I am planning for second half of the year. I’m retiring my Primate SSCX as my knees are objecting to it with the combination of hills. So therefore I’m planning a lugged steel frame and fork with a non top end build.

I’m interested to hear what you think of White T11 hubs, Velocity Major Tom rims, Sram lower end groupsets and your favourite cantilever brakes. I have TRP Euro X on the Primate which have been good but interested from the more experienced on cantis what your favourites are. I will probably just go with Zipp alloy post, stem and bars at this point.

All help appreciated.

Nothing bad to say about Zipp post/stem/bars.

White H3 were better IMHO, but gone now.

Tubs all the time? Or did you mean A23? For clincher also consider Pacenti PL23 (box) SL23 (shallow vee), Hplusson TB14 / Archetype. Pacenti are tubeless ready, US made A23 are sort of tubeless ready. I’d put Pacenti at the top of the list.

Forget old style EuroX / wide cantis unless you’re going to be in mud all the time. The market is just about ready for discs with SRAM 10 & 11 speed hydro levers, rad TRP Spyre & Hy/Rd cable calipers and improving Shimano CX75 calipers. But if you’re sticking with rim brakes, then consider shorty ultimate, or if it’s a custom frame, go Paul mini moto / TRP CX8.4 and get the builder to lower the studs a bit so the pads are mounted as high as possible on the arm, which will increase your pad<->rim clearance due to the arc of the arm.

Also, if you go SRAM, you can use an X7/X9/X0 short cage mech, which gains you a clutched cage and the ability to put a MTB cassette on the rear if you need fewer gear inches for your knees.

I’m sorry, did Blakey just recommend discs over cantis??

I don’t get what point you’re trying to make here H.

The current crop of hydro levers (still $ right now) and rapidly improving cable calipers (close to shorty ultimate $, or slightly over) means it’s nearly ready for mass market adoption with improved braking and without kludges or crazy price tags.

The first indexed shifters sucked, the first clipless pedals sucked, etc etc.

Sram rival is a great groupset. I’m also a big fan of paul stuff, as Blakey will attest to

Cheers Guys. Want to stick with cantis and tubulars at this point in the planning. I want to do a fairly traditional build. Rival was the groupset I was thinking of so that may be a way forward. I might keep an eye out for H3s secondhand possibly Blakey. Many thanks for your thoughts all.

Look at other options for tubs too.

From reports I have read, having a 23mm tub rims makes very little difference to the performance of the tyre. 23mm clinchers do make a difference however.

No point, just genuinely interested.

It was very recently that most people were recommending canti brakes rather than disc. There was a whole argument over modulation, additional weight etc. I imagine if I was in the market for a new CX frame I too would probably choose one with disc mounts. But aren’t a lot of low-mid range wheelsets and brakes heavy?

Never buy version 1.0.

Early road/cx discs suffered from various issues that made the cons outweigh the pros.

Things have iterated and price & weight have gone down, integration and useability have gone up.

Cheap parts are heavier than expensive parts. This applies to more than just disc wheels.

Those new-ish TRP cantis, Revox or whatever they are. Anyone seen those?

The low profile and integrated barrel is nice, but they still use smooth stud pads.

Save money at 1/3 of the price and buy CR710 instead. ~same weight according to Tektro/TRP spec page.

can agree with everything blakey has said.

brakes. Avid Ultimates or TRP 8.4. the 8.4 will blow your canti mind if you are happy with the clearance. the new TRP Revox looks cool too.

group. Rival is great for CX, works as well as force when everything is caked in mud. cheaper to replace.

wheels. i have the WI R3… amazing. best hubs i have ever owned. 3x seasons of CX. perfect. had to rebuild my DT240 twice in that time. everyone is right about the tubs. 23mm wide gives you more gluing surface, but it won’t really ride different. Clinchers… will be totally different on a 23mm rim.

It makes a huge difference if the tyre bed is shaped for a larger tyre. They stay stuck on better. Lots more surface area and less tyre ‘flop’ at low pressures.

Spent up today, HED C2s and WI T11s.

What blakey and coach spiro said about brakes and groups.

clutched RDs are awesome too. it looks like my upgrade list just got another entry after my experiences with them (and discussions about them) recently.