Man, I’m really sorry to hear that this build just isn’t falling into place for you.
Nah it’s all good mouche, only two minor issues with the frameset, one which is already dealt with, the other which will be dealt with.
My current issue is time and having some free without a 2 year old wanting to help.
Front hydro is on and working - so at least I can get to work on Friday.
Will have to have another go at bleeding it as I missed a step and didn’t do the squeeze and release while the top cup was in place before plugging it. Works, but just has a long pull.
Rear is mounted and cable cut, will do what I can tomorrow night before Brew Club.
Rear hydro is on and working, much better lever action than the front. Will see how they go on tomorrows commute. Need to bed the brakes in, should happen first use on the descent from home.
Also tried to setup the tires tubeless, but not a hope in hell as the carcass on the Barlow Pass Standards is too floppy and trying to get them to pop with a floor pump on the HED Belgium+ rims wasn’t possible. Looks like I’ll be hitting up the FTR boys for the use of their compressor on the weekend.
Trying to work out what to do next. Fenders & dyno lights or Gears.
Phase 2 of the build is complete.
Salsa Cowbell 2’s and the Shimano RS685 Brifters/BR785 callipers are installed.
This is sick. are you going to trim the steerer?
Totally depends on final positioning of the bars. Got a broken L5, so massive seat to bar drop is not possible without me being munted at the end of a ride. Stem was raised over the weekend in an attempt to get similar saddle to bar and saddle to hoods measurements that I have on the Kenevans. Will see how that pans out tomorrow.
Had a realisation last night that when I do fenders I may be able to use my Yakima Frontloader racks unless I work out a quick release for the front or forgo smuglord fender length/mudflaps due to how the wheel is clamped.
Or get a different rack.
Spent some time this evening effing around with fenders/struts/bolts/washers and ended up with this for the rear without having to change the gearing or position of the sliding dropouts.
Plenty of room on the first strut to adjust.
Sweet FA on the second strut.
You can just see the top of the strut passing through the bolt.
Will source some longer struts in the near future.
Looks like I’ll also need a 40mm bolt to get a better curve down at the chain and some leather washers to provide some proactive noise prevention.
And a daytime #baaw pic.
To extend the length of the struts, see if you can find some of the SKS quick release thingys that attach to the eyelet end. Will give you a few extra mm to play with and also have the benefit of being quick release if anything gets stuck in the mudguard.
Commuter cycles in melbs will probably have some if you can’t get locally.
Also, those fenders are pretty short. Could benefit with some mudflaps.
#needsmoarmudflap
Looking good. Yes some longer struts will be good to have. But to a moar important question, what colour bartape?
ftfy
Seb I have black fizik 3mm tape I’ll put on this week.
Decided I won’t go to 11spd until next year as Nicole has just sprung an interstate trip on me, so fun times cash is going to some flights instead.
^ Yum, cushy. I just started using Lizard Skins 3.2 mm and it’s pretty good.
Split complimentary theme using the Orange, Black, Tan and Red Spacers would tell me that… Teal Bar tape is the only option. Not Celestial, Teal 
Lulz.
How does Royal Blue fit into that equation? Got Tan canvas and Royal Blue edging for my front bag to be built.
If I can find some orange spacers (haven’t gone looking yet) they’ll replace the red ones. Still working on fit. Was happy enough with 60kms in that position today, including some time in the drops, seems I got the seat angle right and it’s pushed me forward a touch which is good. Have to head out again this arvo, so will drop it down a couple of spacers and see how that fairs.
better with every photo geoff
I love this site, I use it when I teach any Vis Com class.