Hi, I purchased a frame recently that came with a nice pair of Suntour Superbe pro track hubs
Anyway I put on my EAI cog (standard thread) last night with no probs. But when I tried to put my lockring on I couldn’t get it past one turn before it got stuck. Now I didn’t wanna try excessive force before checking on here because I am worried that I might cut the thread and do damage to the hub.
Now my guess is that there is a bit of glue from the tubulars stuck on the thread (which was also all over the rims) that might block it, but thought I put the question out anyway, whether they need a special lockring with a different thread.
thanks guys! I am using a standard no-name lockring from kookie that I used on my velocity hubs before. I will clean the threads tonight with acetone and see if that helps. Just wanted to make sure it’s supposed to fit before doing any damage.
I suggested this because the OP said they may be glue on the threads. An easy way to fix this would be to thread through all the gunk, possibly using a lockring tool.
I agree it’s not good to overtighten the lockring.
Thanks for your help again guys. You were right, it’s takes a standard lockring. I cleaned the threads last night with acetone and after that the lockring went on alright.
Tonight I will put the bottom bracket in and might post some pics of the build later on this week.
I don’t understand why this is the case, ‘please explayn’! (unless for track riding when a lockring is not necessarily required). Surely as soon as you apply braking resistance the lockring is going to tighten much more than ‘a little more than finger tight’ and then you will have play between the point at which the cog is tight and the point at which the lockring is tight.
You need to do it up quite a bit tighter than finger tight, (you don’t have to go crazy but a bit of effort is required) if you don’t it will have a certain amount of ‘take up’ before the cog coming off engages the lockring because of the way in which the threads ‘load up’. If you don’t have the lockring tight your cog is not going to come off, it will just unwind until it its the locking then stop.
That’s about as technical as I can go but I’m sure one of the engineering heads could put it in more ‘tech’ terms. Blakey, Frog??
i thought the same, when i first made my fixie the cog was unwinding a little when i put back pressure through the cranks. i ended up rotafixing it then tightening my lockring a fair bit and it hasn’t happened since
The play I’m referring to has hopefully been expounded by Bender, but I’ll try again.
The force exerted by braking or skidding resistance is far greater than ‘a little more than finger tight’ which means that the lockring will tighten more under this additional force and hence the cog must have loosened. Then when you start cranking forward, the cog will slip a bit until it has tightened all the way on.
(This is assuming that the skidding/braking force is sufficient to loosen the sprocket, which it often is, but may explain why you are unaware of this phenomenon)
I think it is this continous play that will lead to stripping the thread faster.
I am mainly a velodrome rider so I generally don’t do skidzzz. I guess I just didn’t know about this problem you guys are having.
Having said that I have never had any problems doing the cog up tight (with a proper chainwhip - shimano make a good strong one) and then spinning the lockring on with my hands then just torquing it up slightly with a lock ring tool. If this is all done correctly there really shouldn’t be any play in either direction.