track fork end idea?

Hey all,
I’m new over here as you can see and some advice would be greatly appreciated!

So to start with, I’m planning to build my first fixie on my own.
And I’d like to know if it could be possible to convert these horizontal dropouts into track fork end by cutting off the dropouts and reverse them.


Would this idea work?
Could anyone suggest me what do I need to weld it back to the frame with a flametorch?

Thanks!

I wouldn’t bother personally. Can of worms.

Those dropouts are still horizontal, just not rear facing so you should be able to run a fixed gear anyway.
There is nothing wrong with a fixie ‘conversion’.

What are you hoping to gain by doing that?

an interesting pannier rack mount configuration

I thought having rear facing dropouts would of helped, I tried to convert it to a SS but the axle kept getting loose.

Just leave them as they are, and try to rectify the axle problem. Getting loose as in slipping?

Yes, slipping, sorry.

And thanks alot for the fast reply guys!

EDIT: Could it be possible that it was slipping due to the quick release axle system? I’m pretty sure it is now that I think of it…

Yes.

If you’re running fixed/single speed, a nutted track hub is the best.

yeah defs the QR axle setup… get a nut on axle built into your hub, do that sucker up tight and you’ll be sweet!

Changing drop-outs is a job for a pro. Not something you should attempt unless you have a lot of experience (ie. you know exactly which tools to use and how to use them).

Good luck with the build, will be interested to see the results!

One of the Brisbane boys chopped and flopped his track ends. Its just his shitty polo bike. I wouldnt do it to ride everyday. Joe Cosgrove in Brisbane does it professionally but that costs money. More money then that bike is worth. At the end of the day BUY A NEW BIKE FRAME if you want rear track ends. Their not that exspesive and hold there value anyways.

isn’t that a mountain bike frame?

I know someone who welded up the forward facing dropouts and got a grinder and shaped the outside, and cut a new slot in rear facing configuration…
but he’s a machinist.

have to be careful not to melt the braising in the stays too…

I hazard a guess your slippage is because the dropouts on this frame are narrower than the thread length of the qr axle between the axle nut and the skewer once the skewer is tightened.

If so, you can fix that simply by filing down the end of the axle. Or adding a narrow washer to each end of the axle prior to the nut.

That may be so, but Sheldon says that a properly set up QR axle should work fine too. It’s what I’m running on my conversion, and although it’s only early days, I’ve had no problems yet.

sheldon says a lot of things… tried for a while using a SS wheel with a quick release skewer. Did the job, but if you ride a lot i found that it kept slipping forward on the chain side and had to keep adjusting it every few days.

This all went away once i bought a proper set of wheels with track nuts.

two conversions, thousands of fixed commuting kms all quick release, use an old one with a good solid steel axle and there will be no grief.

Yeah I had a modern Mavic QR skewer on a single speed once, and the sucker still moved under heaving loading.
Who knows what skewer the OP is using.