i’m only racing D/C grade currently, and have been racing for 6 months…i’d rather be midpack now while running lower gears, than up the front on a bigger gear, as i’ve still got a lot to learn regarding safe passing, pulling out to grab a faster wheel, dropping back in after pulling my turn. sure i can do all those things, but there’s been some close calls which could’ve been avoided had i been more competent.
Im not talking about a grade being restricted.
More so c grade or new comers,
I would rather see a new guy or a poor cyclist get dropped off the back than being in the middle pushing 90gi when the rest are running 84.
The problem isnt with big gearing but having 15 guys on different gearing and the pace surging un controllably.
Good cyclist can judge speed and distance better and prepare for whats happening new guys often fail at this.
Hi
I have read elsewhere that you may want a lower gear outdoors than indoors.
And also that you may want a lower gear for a ‘tighter’ track than a more expansive one.
I would have thought those ideas are contradictory, to an extent? i.e indoor tracks would generally be tighter?
I will be setting up a bike soon (after I collect it)
I’m thinking about gearing and also chain length.
How big a sproket teeth range should you be able to cover with one chain, for typical track frome?
e.g. i might go 16/17 on the back or 17/18. Could one chain cover either option should I decide to change?
To answer your first question. Outdoor tracks are usually made of concrete and are rougher than indoor tracks. This, combined with wind and other weather effects makes them noticeably slower than a smooth indoor track. It always pays to have a few different gear options in your bag if you’re traveling to a track you haven’t ridden before.
Tighter tracks, like Muswelbrook for instance are much much shorter (I think around 180-200m?). By the time you’ve wound up, someone on a shorter gear will have already completed a lap.
I’ve run the same chain on my track bike for over two years now, and the length it came was fine. The most teeth I have run is a 50-15, with fat tyres that scrubbed my cut-out for the rear wheel. This same length of chain is fine for running 48-13 as well, so as long as you have an inch or slightly more of dropout, you’ll be fine.
Is it worth keeping a chain tensioner on a track bike (if it came with one) ?
I would have thought in general that the axel bolts would keep it in place?
I guess I’d prefer to do without something that may restrict adjustment range for the dropout (not sure it would tho)
And one less thing to mess with if we want to flip/flop.
Just on this from above
Tighter tracks, like Muswelbrook for instance are much much shorter (I think around 180-200m?). By the time you’ve wound up, someone on a shorter gear will have already completed a lap.
I think the reference to “tighter” tracks was in context that doing say 1000m on a 333m track would be three laps whereas doing same distance on your 200m track would be five laps. You’d want an easier gear for the 5 lap effort than the 3, all else equal?
i wouldn’t bother, you don’t need your chain tension very high on the track
whats an “easier” gear? do you mean a lower gear? you’re still doing 1000m so whats the difference? more cornering? i’d be interested for more comment on this, but as a beginner myself also, i’d be more worried about pedalling.
Would this be the correct order for lowest to highest gear…?
Match sprint
500m ITT
2k Points
2k Scratch
Or would some of those want the same gear anyway?
Don’t know if this is helpful but … Track Cycling Gearing from Velodrome Shop
Reading this prompted me to experiment with bigger/smaller gears on Tuesday nights quite a bit lately.
ta - Well they say the biggest gears are for TT/pursuit. At what point is a TT short enough to warrant a lower gear? How about “30 sec challenge” at HSV (360m?).
the time difference between getting up to speed at the start VS the distance you are losing because the gear you are running is smaller than what you can push
Yes just wondering if the ‘break-even’ point would likely be at - say 1k, 500m, 250m or whatever.
Obviously exact answer will vary with strength of rider and how much difference in gearing we mean.
Would anyone here gear down for a standing start ITT?
I’ve read that for a given gear rollout that having a smaller chainring gives more acceleration.
EG 48/16 v 39/13
Is this true empirically or anecdotally?
If so why would anyone use the bigger chainring equivalent?
If you’ve read this, was your source quantitative or just speculation?
Smaller sprockets increases chordal action (2.2.1 Chordal Action) and wear (less overall teeth/links in the system)
It does save a small amount of weight and also there will be a near insignificant reduction in rotating mass.
But there’s no point to doing this.
More teeth = less wear
Less teeth = less weight
Both negligible.
Trying to find my original source with no joy but found some chat on the topic here - Gear Inches vs Chainring size
[quote=“scottridesabike,post:66,topic:55897”]
whats an “easier” gear? do you mean a lower gear? you’re still doing 1000m so whats the difference? more cornering? i’d be interested for more comment on this, but as a beginner myself also, i’d be more worried about pedalling.[/QUOTE]Think I found the original article on this when looking for the one on chainrings:
Big picture – what’s different from riding a long track? Things happen faster. Keep your composure. If you do this, the rest should take care of itself. Keep the basics in mind; namely always check your shoulder before moving around the track.
How is gearing different? Low gears are key. On a 167 meter track you can get away running a 90 if you’re in really good shape and the race is 3 days long or less, but by and large, live and die by the 88. This can be a hard thing for American riders to get used to; we tend to run really big gears here, given that most of our track are 250-400 m, but the 6-day pros do this for a reason. The short laps and tight turns combine to effectively make each race a series of short accelerations rather than one long grind. Running a big gear might make you feel awesome at first, but it will kill you faster than you would ever imagine. Some really small tracks (London, Ontario and Boulder come to mind) would be well suited to an 86 or even an 84 for racing. Don’t be thrown off by this, just spin it up. I remember being amazed to find that I had been sprinting at 63+ km/h in an 81 at the London track.
TRACK CYCLING
Inspired to try race A grade on 88gi tonight.
swuzzle, I think you might be reading into it too much. The best thing to do is get out and try things and see what works for you. Maybe ask what the guys you’re in a pack with are running, so you can all (generally) slow down and speed up relatively similarly. There isn’t really too much theory involved in gearing on the track. The only theory behind track cycling is ‘ride fast, always’. I hope that helps.
My perspective is junior parent so I deal with and am interested in the theory side and also have rollouts etc to factor in.
I’m also interested in what the various coaches say however there are schools of thought so I like to develop my own ideas and hear others.
The only theory behind track cycling is ‘ride fast, always’
But plenty of theories about how to be able to do that.
just don’t be one of “those dads” screaming at their kid from the infield at DISC on a Tuesday night and you’ll be sweet.