Hey what is the point having a 3 cross laced pattern on the drive side and radial lacing on the non drive side??
check this auction out:
Cheer,
Dub.
Shorter spokes are lighter and stiffer. “Use them where you can” style of wheelbuilding.
What about 2-cross non-driveside and radial driveside? Insane-o.
very interesting…if u was gonna build a wheel for a guy which is around 90kgs, would u use 36 or 32 holes hub??
I heard something about if u have a high flange hub the more holes it got the weaker the hub flange is due to the holes is drilled so close together. Is it true?
On the velodrome? 24 or 28 spokes are plenty. Real sprinters would use more spokes, of course.
Oh crap…didnt realised i posted on fixed velodrome …my bad…
I actually riding on the road…
32H would be fine. 28h probably would too. It’s the quality of the build that’s more important than the number of spokes.
Another reason for radial non-drive side is that it looks really cool 
Spud said its the stiffiness and the weight. Most importantly the bling bling!!!
Hey which lace patterns is the stiffest and strongest? Haha might give it a try one-day and some soldering.
3X strongest.
No real advantage to radial lacing on a hand built rear wheel NDS (or anywhere else) other than aesthetics, if your taste runs to that. Negligible weight savings, negligible aero gains and you end up with a wheel that isn’t very robust to side load.
I really dont like the different pattern …cause i dunno why i love everything in balance. I willl for sure do some 3 crosss…
my fat ass: 103 Kg buck nekkid.
my wheels: open pro 32 hole, miche primato hub.
my riding: messenger. untidy, down flights of stairs and up gutters, pot holes and granny ramps, occasional small child or elderly person.
my pattern: 3X front and rear.
so far still perfect and that’s after i’ve beaten them like a red headed step child for almost a full year.
go 3 cross and you’ll be fine, but make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing to build them or it’ll all end in tears and skin grafts.
do get the spokes pulling the right way, get the inner/outer positioning right, and tension them properly.
don’t think it’s easy, or build them in your frame cause you don’t have a stand, or go “that’s fine, it’ll do”.
follow these basic rules and all will be well.
I guess you’ve never followed Des in the sunshine… There’s a mystic balance in his asymmetry.
I’m hoping it’s his bike you’re referring to
Well … you can follow Nick if you miss the “mystic balance”.
Des
I’ve got a 16-spoke Dura-Ace front wheel on my courier bike and i’m yet to buckle it. Stiffness? I reckon there’s more flex in my bars, but im not ‘track sprinting’ on it.
Those wheels have really heavy rims to allow so few spokes. Sprinters prefer much lighter rims for acceleration, and more spokes.
i’ve been meaning to mention this for a while and this is a good place to use it.
in town at the racks where sit and bitch to each other is parked a… i can’t call it an abortion cause it isn’t bleeding,
so lets go with abomination.
it’s a training/ commuting bike for someone fatter than me.
old repco frame, heavy old tri bars.
super long stem, barely inserted into fork, about 5 mm past minimum insertion.
mix of shifters, rear is 105 flight deck, front is mounted on top tube.
rear wheel is 2X drive, radial off drive, on low flange hub. no tension at all.you can push to the stay with your thumb. when he takes off you can actually see the hub rotate before the rim does.
but the piece de resistance, front is 32 hole, radial lace, with every second spoke removed for that all important aero weight saving look. light weight spokes, no tension.
and best of all you can actually see a wave braking pattern starting to form in the front sidewall where the wheel is trying to fold up between each spoke.
i tried to explain to him why his bike was going to kill one day, but it’s what he wants.