Fixed nerds… I know wheel questions are frowned upon but I’m going to ask anyway. Is 36h overkill for a commuter track wheelset? Ideally I wanted to run 32h F 36h R, but Velomine won’t split the set, so it’s all 36h or all 32h. I realize that 36h is going to be heavier, but I want the set to be strong as, I’m sick of constantly replacing spokes. I weigh about 74kg if that is of any help.
Thanks!
Now there’s an oxymoron! 
I think 36H is ideal for the street. The weight sacrifice for a few extra spokes won’t be noticeable…just take a leak before every ride.
At 74KG I don’t think it will make much difference, I ride 24 spoke wheels to work each day (~34km) and weigh about 85kg
Plus I don’t exactly treat the wheels too well when it comes to jumping gutters and a bit of off road shenanigans
32 will be fine for your weight
edit: velomine do splt, i got rear 36 three cross and front 32 radial. costs extra but they DO do it.
Thanks mate. I reckoned more is probably good, just wasn’t sure if I was crazing going to 36h. I really wish they’d split the set.
I’m about the same weight, and I’ve never had an issue with 32 hole wheels for commuting etc. I’ve also got some 36h wheels, and the main thing with those is that I’ve broken spokes a couple of times, and you can get the spoke out of the way and keep riding, the wheel remains pretty true and strong.
For a track wheelset, yes, I think 36H would be overkill, especially if the hub is a flip-flop.
I’m about 82kg, and ride a 9-speed commuter which has machine-built wheels with 32 straight gauge spokes, plus a fixie with 32 hole Open Pros and DT Competition spokes. I probably break a spoke on the rear wheel of my commuter every 6-12 months, and have never broken one on the fixie. This is largely because on the geared bike, the wheel dishing introduced by having 9 sprockets on one side is a major factor in the wheel’s weakness. Ideally, I’d want 36 butted spokes for a derailer-geared wheel, but could easily get by on just 28 spokes for a fixed wheelset, especially if it had a flip-flop hub. (Flip-flop hubs do not require any wheel dish.)
12 spokes on the front radially laced, 32 on the rear 3 cross. Never broken a spoke, wheels never gone out of true and im always hopping off gutters etc.
Either, keep it 36 & 36 or 32 & 32 IMO.
I ride Superbe Pro 36 x 36 to Open Pro with 15g spokes 3 x crossed, built the wheels myself and haven’t touched them or bust anything in 2 years. Built properly either 36’s or 32’s are the shit.
Also, what Dave S said about dishing.
PS: the weight differential in terms of extra spokes is under 35g per wheel (based on my weights for 14g DT Comp spokes, which was 8.333g per spoke and nipple)
32 will be fine for you. Heck, my roadie is 16 front 20 rear and I weigh 20 kgs more than you… it’s 3 years old now and the rear has needed one minor true.
Thanks all… Last year, my commuter fixie did ~13000 km, it busted more spokes than I can count, and cost me nearly as much as a DA / MOP wheelset to repair. Granted they’re were cheap shits, DA22’s w/ Formula hubs and SAPIM spokes. I’m sure the DA22 is the weakness there, either way, I figure investing in some good wheels is long overdue. I don’t need DA’s for commuting, but it’s about $100 more for a set of DA over Formula or Origin 8. To be NJS certified as my avatar title states, I need 36h. 
A more important question than 32/36 is why choose an unsealed hub for commuting?
Did not know that they were unsealed… this could pose a problem. Thanks for the heads up, time to do some more reading. I certainly don’t want to cause them undue wear. My commuter is usually dirtier than my mountain bikes.
Of course as they are designed for velodrome use I guess. Cup and cone are great though- but the Shimano road hubs have pretty good seals.
Or maybe because they haven’t been updated for umpteen years.
Hey… get some Mavic Ellipses. Though may not have the spoke count you want. Or NJSness.
velomine also do phils to open pros =)
Seriously… thanks for the heads up fellas… I don’t want a hub I have to do periodic maintenance, it’s my commuter, it just has to work with nothing more than some spoke tension and chain lube. Thinking of switching my order to Formula/Mavic Open Pro, or Phil w/ Open Pro. The Phil’s are about $75 more than the DA, ouch, but from what I’ve read they’re quite nice, will last forever, and have sealed cartridge bearings. Thoughts?
I’d be shitting myself every time I locked the bike up somewhere with those wheels. Looks like I’ll just get the Formula/Origin 8 / Open Pro setup, cheaper, sealed cartridge bearings w/ DT Swiss. Seems fair enough…
Formula have sealed cartridge bearings too. I’ve got Formula to OP on my commuter… going great. Zero maintenance.
I think who builds 'em is far more important than spoke count.