yeh, agree, looks like a gap in the second pic. and fuck me, thats some dirty shit right there. recipe for worn cog/chain etc.
You ever resolve the issue?
change a purple tape make it whole purple
I bought a fixed conversion off a guy and the fixed cog was attached to the freewheel side (flip flop hub). as i was riding and putting more pressure on the cranks the cog started to slide on the thread as the lockring was not opposite thread. might want to check this out. it happens… a cog would have to be stripped almost entirely for it to slip on the teeth.
[QUOTE=can you think of any other reason for my cranks slipping forward a 1/4 of a rotation when I push hard or pull up to skid?[/QUOTE]
check that your cog/lockring is actually on the ‘fixed’ side of the wheel. i had a conversion that i bought of some guy and he had the cog on the freewheel side and the same thing was happening to me as i put more pressure on thee cranks when popping for a wheelie etc.
I think he may have rectified this problem dude, I mean he has had almost a year…
Thanks for pointing out the tread to me dude, my first road bike was a hallmark.
Broke everything on it in various crashes.
Good times.
Anyway, what’s the standard thing to do in this thread-digging situation?
^ Be thankful for once it wasn’t Azz…
My first roadie was a Hallmark Steed, nicked it off my Dad to ride to Uni. Ended up cracking the down tube, did have it repaired, but it cracked again so I donated it to Abbotsford Cycles.
Yo that was my bike bitd
I replaced it with a giant perigee from Blakey.
yeah that slipping…
my mate hopped on my bike and stripped the fixed hub sprinting. Turns out the lockring had come loose some how, still have the wheel sitting there. Only has a freewheel side now.
How often should a lockring be tightened?
If you do it properly, then once.
Ah good, because I did it proper on my new wheel but never knew whether to touch it again.
Thanks