Chimpy
February 27, 2012, 4:27am
2
good buyins indeed. Prettier than my lemond, but I stand that mine was more of a bargain.
Sold! Finally got myself a superbe pro headset, frame is ok too…
nice pick up ben! the size kinda threw me off, i think the seller says 54 st and 56 tt?
thanks for the tip off jase! will suss out the sizing when I pick it up, if its a good fit it will make a good steel x modern group project
FOA going lemond crazay
Weird that this has the team z decals but no internal cables, mine has no team z decals but internal cabling
Picked it up last night, turns out the owner bought it new in 1990 from a local bike shop in port kembla. Came with a full superbe pro group. He raced it for a few seasons in the early 90’s. Comforting to know the history and its in better condition then I thought, just needs a hit with some fish oil to get the rust under control
What’s the Olmo in the background? How big is it?
Olmo sintex columbus SLX, its around the 52-53 mark, you interested?
spirito
February 29, 2012, 4:37pm
10
Great score, good to keep it in the 'warra
Yeh, that’s very nice. Still wish I had the dosh to jump on the Lemond bandwagon when I had the chance…
DPK5B
February 29, 2012, 4:43pm
12
Tell me again why this is weird, simple search for images on team z would find many examples of the team riding frames way before and even after internal TT routing was in vogue.
ben_is_fixed:
Picked it up last night, turns out the owner bought it new in 1990 from a local bike shop in port kembla. Came with a full superbe pro group. He raced it for a few seasons in the early 90’s. Comforting to know the history and its in better condition then I thought, just needs a hit with some fish oil to get the rust under control
awesome ben, what size did it end up buying?
I measured it at 54st & 55tt, same as my kenevans:D
Yea clamp on, wish it was braze on
clamp on is probably preferable if you’re going to put a modern group on anyway. nice buying.
AL9000
March 4, 2012, 1:58am
18
How so? High end 28.6mm clamp mechs aren’t made anymore, and only low end stuff (2200/Sora/Tiagra) is shimmed out from 31.8mm. This means you need a clamp on adaptor and… a braze on mech.
What he said. Will be using clamp on adaptor for braze on mech
p-dub
March 7, 2012, 9:25pm
20
(above post from baberuthless was me)
front derailleur - this is where the headaches started…
I won’t go into the tech specs too much, for fear of boring you all to death, but basically it works like this - if you have a frame with a braze-on front derailleur tab, the tab needs to be mounted to these quite precise specs. Needless to say, the tab on the Basso was all wrong - too low, with a slot that was 5mm too short, and nearly 4mm too far outboard from the centre of the flared Max seat tube. The upshot of this, is that the front derailleur wouldn’t swing down far enough towards the small chainring, and riding in the small ring, let alone shifting down from the big ring would have been practically impossible. Now back in the day, when square taper cranks were de rigueur, and front derailleurs perhaps had more adjustment capabilities - this wouldn’t really have been a problem at all. You could have moved the cranks outboard with a slightly longer spindle, and/or given the derailleur cage (which would have been steel) some minor persuasion (read - bend) for some more clearance, and get it to shift that way. But this groupset is Campy 11. You can’t mess with new Ultra-Torque cranks - the BB axle is the length it is, and can’t be changed, and the derailleur - that bad boy is now carbon and titanium, and doesn’t take so well to ‘gentle persuasion’. But Richard REALLY wanted it to work, without having to fit different parts…
So I got busy - very busy - with the Dremel, and shaved off probably more aluminium and carbon than the Campy engineers would care to hear about, so that the derailleur would swing way past its intended ‘lowest’ position and actually work with the Basso tab. I also had to get a little friendly with a jewellers file to the braze-on slot to allow the derailleur to be positioned high enough to clear the big chainring. I should have taken a before and after picture, but I’m a mechanic, not a photographer, so I kind of forgot the before pic. But, here is the derailleur with plenty of carbon cage and alloy body removed There is about 3mm of carbon removed from the top inside cage, and a big oval recess in the black body for the cage to swing down into.If you have a Campy Super Record front derailleur on your bike - have a quick look and you’ll see just how different they are…
I ran into similar issues when having my moser roadie built, so thought that the adapter would probably save a bit of hassle. But maybe this problem isn’t as common as I think it is?