So I managed to score this De Rosa CX frame off ebay a couple of weeks back:
Blakey has already sorted me out with some brakes and an eno eccentric hub that I plan to use to run the bike as a SSCX for a little while but eventually I’m going to go for some gears. This is a longer term project and I want to canvas some opinions.
The frame is spaced at 135mm, it has a carbon rear triangle, is there any hope in me being able to run any of my existing 130mm road wheels in the frame? I don’t mind having to get a new set of wheels for it, but potentially it might be handy to be able to swap out with road wheels.
All my current parts are Campagnolo, and I think a Black/Red Centaur group would be pretty amazing on this bike, thoughts?
Wheels, if I do go down the road of needing new wheels are there any recommendations for something around the $600 mark? Should I just go tubular?
Centaur is good as it’s still 10 speed and shifts well, I also have built lots of veloce bikes lately and I must admit it shifts bloody nice just don’t runs power torque cranks for cx as they are a pain to remove and I think having a easily serviceable bb is pretty handy for a cx/gravel bike.
for wheels I’d try getting industry deals(mates in shops) on hope hubs and lace them to archetype, tubs are good but at least with clinchers you have a nice multi purpose wheelset.
This looks like a great project. I just got a handbuilt wheelset with tb 14s, to be used on a sturdy SS commuter. I’m still gathering the parts so haven’t mounted them yet so can’t comment much on the riding qualities but I’ve chosen them for the possibility of using them on and off road, and as a good reliable wheel that can be fast - and possibly raceable (although I haven’t got them with racing in mind). The build ended up being slightly over your budget, but just an idea.
Thanks for the input guys. Is it also a problem with the CX specific crankset and BB that Campy brought out? Having never dealth with powertorque is the issue removing the crankarms from the BB or the BB from the frame?
It’s taking the cranks off the bb, you unscrew a bolt then have to use a gear/bearing puller to pull the non drive side arm off,
Then you can pull the drive side out that has the spindle attached.
Then just use a tool to unscrew the bb.
I would just go some fsa compacts or similar, or like you said go the centaur with ultra torque.
You really only need mechs and shifters.
The biggest issue I had with Campy Veloce (besides the “coathanger” debacle) is you have to use a 14mm Allen key to tighten / undo the cranks and then use a bearing puller (or the Campy specific tool) to remove the crank arm. It’s ridiculous.
+1 on having “easy” to remove cranks. wouldn’t stress on what type/brand/model until you get to worry about price and cool factor - but ease of removal is a must. if it’s easy then you’ll do the small things often and it’ll run well. basic rules with anything for gravel/cx really.
135 is surprising. really surprising.
I would vote for tubeless really. have a look at the WTB Chris Cross rims - i’m pretty impressed with them so far, but no ride report.
UT uses a 10mm allen key. Needs a bearing puller for the bearings, but not to remove the cranks.
PT needs the 14mm and stupid pulling tool.
Honestly Dan, get a shimano CX70 crankset (Or CX50, cheaper, but not hollow arms). Cheap bearings, standard tools. Or a 105/ultegra/R600/R700 crankset and rings to suit.
Also, you can get 135mm ends for that ENO hub easily, ask in the wanted section first, then PM Asher, then contact Gran Prix cycles (?) who are the distro. It’s a 5min swap for them.
I think you will struggle to find a non-disc 135mm hub with a Campy freebody.
Have been down this path with the Kumo Rando and had no luck.
Chris King and White Ind both do a 135mm spaced hub but both are disc.
I thought it would be possible to take a Hope Pro 3 135mm spaced Shimano hub and swap the end caps and freebody but Hope said it doesn’t work.
The WI hub measures 132.5mm which means that it fits into the frame fairly well as is. Given that it equates to a measly 1mm deflection each side I’m not worried about it going together. Double benefit is that it could be thrown into a 130mm frame with ease as well.
The 135mm rear spacing really threw me, but I trust my vernier, and I’ve double checked the spacing with some 130mm wheels I’ve got lying around and it is definitely too wide.
I’ve got some old square taper Campy cranks here and might end up just throwing an el-cheapo BB in so I can at least get it rolling. Then I can enter the bizzaro world of modern cranksets later in the year. Thanks for all the welcome advice guys.
