I’ve just picked up a secondhand CX frameset with the intention to do my first build and wanted to ask for help and suggestions on what components I should get (and where) for it.
The frame is a 2012 Cube CrossRace and has Enve forks -
I already have the brakes (Avid Shorty Ultimates) and a seatpost for it, so would be looking for suggestions on everything else. Being my first build, I just want to make sure the parts/components I get will fit the frame.
Budget-wise, I don’t have a set budget but would like to go for quality components but nothing too over the top. There is some info on the bike here if it helps 2012 Cube Cross Race - Cyclocross Bike Details
Since it has Avid ultimates on it (and they are very good brakes) I’d go with SRAM double tap levers, as the avid brakes feel/work the best with SRAM levers, it also means you can get a SRAM MTB type2/clutched rear derailleur which are good.
Cranks: find out what BB standard it has -threaded/BB30 etc as this will influence the choice, but I’d go for a crank with a 110bcd (compact) gives more access to wide range of rings, either 2x or 1x.
Got a 68mm BSA crankset? Done.
Need one? Look for a sram rival / force or shimano 105/ultegra/cx70 or FSA Energy. 110 BCD is good, big ring 48-50 if you’ll see a bit of road/grinding action, 44-46 if you’re racing it. 1x? a narrow wide in a 38-42T range depending on POWA LEGS status.
Your chosen stem/bars/saddle/pedals
Cable kit
Bottom pull shimano cx70 front mech for whatever group you use.
Shakes and matching rear mech (SRAM: Force plus x7/9 type 2 med cage for 1x or 2x 10, Shimano: 5700/6700 is getting real cheap now that 6800/5800 is out)
I’m kinda doing the same at the moment. I went with the SRAM option and bought all second hand. Apex and rival go super cheap secondhand and are pretty cheap new also… I went Force cause thats whats on my roadie and I’m familiar with it and like it.
As Mike D said the type 2 “clutched” rear mechs work great with any of the double tap sram shifters because of the “Exact Actuation” which means the road shifter and the MTB thumb style shifters move the RD’s the same distance and the road and mtb cassettes are spaced the same they all work together… theres a list of the matchy matchy components on the SRAM site here.
Whats cluched? Yeah I didn’t know either… It’s basically a more loaded heavy duty spring that keeps the chain more taught than usual and stops the chain slapping around and being noisy on MTB rigs so is great for cx/gravel grinders.
SO I bought this 1x10 “used” drivetrain for around the $400 mark
Force double shifters with original cables > $150
Force GPX (for threaded BB) Cranks and rings in 110bcd (compact) > $120
SRAM X9 type 2 RD > $80
SRAM 12-36 cassette (new) $40 - wiggle
Race Face 44T 110BCD front ring > $40 - wiggle
A front Force mech would be like $40… 1x10 because #ontrend
Out of interest if you have the coin for new wiggle a sram “climbers kit” for a bit over $200 from memory which includes chain, cassette and clutched RD
Feel free to correct me anywhere people
Oh yeah… SWEET frame, I bought days before this came up and if I hadn’t I would have been all over this.
46 is plenty big enough, noone on this forum has the legs to push >42:11 properly in a CX race situation. (Most of those 1x setups are running high 30s/low 40s rings)
likewise, you don’t need a gear lower than 36:27 or thereabouts, if it’s that steep, run it.
So a 46:36 (46:38 on a 130bcd) gives you closer ratios, better shifting, and a gear high enough for most paved road riding.
Of course, YMMV, If you also use it for commuting / have POWA LEGS/flat hardpack course, run a bigger ring, if you have chicken legs/hills/sloppy course, run a smaller ring.
Obviously you don’t NEED to run such a wide MTB cassette like I am (11-36) … 11-32, 11-28 they’ll all work just as well with a MTB RD, it just has a larger capacity so you have that option. a 40T up front will cover pretty much all of a 46/36 double. In fact when I swapped my 48/34T off I pretty much only lost one gear at the top end. Wolftooth do a good job of explaining it on their website (1X Gravel Setup – wolftoothcomponents.com)
Levers: Buy them individually. Apex Right Hand side, S500 left (they match). Works out much cheaper than buying the set of doubletaps. Apex is the same as rival but with alu levers rather than carbon.
Na 10spd shifters, but I’d buy the rear mech/cass/chain separately, cheaper and you can get a type2/clutched mech which is worth getting if your starting from scratch.
The exact rear mech (X7/X9 medium or short cage), cassette (what ratio) and crankset (well, what sized rings and 1x/2x) you buy will be influenced by the kinda riding your doing and fitness/strength.
I.e. is it gonna be a roady/commuter/gravel grinder with the occasional race vs just racing vs all dirt roads and lotsa climbing
Shouldn’t think so… it includes a 10 speed chain and is compatible with apex and rival that are only offered in 10 speed to my knowledge soooooo going on that I’d say double tap 10 speed shifters is what you match it with.
Thanks JICE - I had a feeling that someone here would have something to do with the frame.
I definitely want to run 2 chainrings, just for the extra range. Mike D is pretty much spot on with the use, I want to use it as a roadie/gravel grinder but would also like to take it on the odd distance ride so would like it to handle the hills.
I think since this is my first build and I am a newbie, I am going to have to put a list of everything I need and go from there so I don’t miss anything. Then I can double check everything is compatible - is that the best way to kick this off?
Thanks JICE - I had a feeling that someone here would have something to do with the frame.
I definitely want to run 2 chainrings, just for the extra range. Mike D is pretty much spot on with the use, I want to use it as a roadie/gravel grinder but would also like to take it on the odd distance ride so would like it to handle the hills.
I think since this is my first build and I am a newbie, I am going to have to put a list of everything I need and go from there so I don’t miss anything. Then I can double check everything is compatible - is that the best way to kick this off?
No short cage type2 unless you are only ever going to 1x. I set one up with 36/46 and short cage and it was >this< close to mech explosion.
The last Force 10sp (if you can find them, maybe used from an 11sp upgrader) shakes are zero loss on the rear, so nicer than apex/rival.
sram 10 & 11 sp road mechs are the same actuation, so you can use 10sp mech with 11sp shifters and vice versa. so you can keep the x9t2 and upgrade to 11sp later if you feel like it.
If you do want 2x10, get a shimano front mech (CX70 would be good and suit CX style rings), will shift better than apex/rival/force front mechs (even with the sram shakes)
I just set up my bike with 105 levers, ultegra rear mech and cx70 front mech and it’s baller. I’m a shimano kinda guy (only cos I don’t know anything about sram) so it was kinda natural. I got sram force cranks tho cos they’re way cooler. Also just put on cx70 rings which look kinda awkward with the force cranks, but are still sweet (and 46/36), but I haven’t ridden them yet.
Dunno where I’m going with this post, but shimano is cool too guys… And remember you can run a 9speed mtb rear mech with 10spd road shifters and still get 10 gears. HOW COOL IS THAT?! Shimano cool, that’s how cool.
you can definitely get FSA gossamer cranks for cheeeep, but id look at the rival cranks or better if you can.
CX70 is hugely preferred for a front mech. i still think 2x has a place as range isnt everything, and ive found that the jumps between gears get pretty (mentally) important when you are 150+kms into a dirt ride.
get a chain catcher if you are planning on racing it/want to save your frame - there are some k-edge ripoffs that are easily found for <$20. well worth the investment IMO.
as for rubber… schwalbe is great, but doesnt have the longevity of other brands if you are spending more time on asphalt/gravel. TBH find some on sale that arent budget level and you will be ok. all the big tyre brands have decent tyres at their mid-high end for what you want/your experience. its also sale time for a lot of that stuff as the CX2015 stuff will be arriveing soon. find a mixed-conditions/hardpack tyre and go for it. you can work out what you like/dont like as time goes on.
