As you’ve probably seen on the 'gram, I recently picked up a new Kumo RADdonneur.
After ‘testing’ the previous one for over 2 years and 20,000km and pushing it to its limits, I jumped at the opportunity to get an improved version based on my feedback.
The main improvements are:
[ul]
[li]clearance for 27.5x2.4" (I stupidly asked for the old one to be built around 44mm and was limited to 2" slicks). I’m currently running Maxxis Ikons 2.2 and 2.35.[/li][li]sub-compact crankset (White Industries 28-44)[/li][li]new Ultegra r8000 derailleurs and 11-34 cassette[/li][li]fork mount bolts, here used with the new Ojeva Negra Bootleggers[/li][li]less aggressive bar drop for long days in the saddle[/li][li]thru-axle rear (the rest will have TA front as well but I’ve got two Son SL hubs to accommodate)[/li][li]160mm rotors.[/li][/ul]
I’ve done a few rides and each time I notice how much of an improvement these relatively small changes have made. Mostly, I can climb +20% sections of loose rock and not have much tyre slippage. As I told Keith, it rides like a stallion on cocaine and has the traction of a tank. You can check out his Instagram for details on how to get one early next year.
I’m largely out of the deep beardo loop on this aspect, but is there reasoning behind the same size at both ends? if i had my way my (race) cx bike would be 140 both ends. Never had an issue with braking or heat on longer rides with my 160/140, and ive known a few ppl who downsized with no issues.
I do recognise that adding frame bag and supplies weights might necessitate staying with 160 at the front, but wondered if a 140 rear was even in consideration.
also acknowledge weight difference is not really a consideration for this bike. im just more curious about it all… and i like the idea of less rotor to accidentally bend
does look like a pretty good bike for your use(s)!
Nik, I was previously running 140mm on both ends and it was mostly good. But with my weight (+95kg), all the gear and the super steep stuff I occasionally ride, I figured 160mm would be best.
Most of the time traction will be the issue preventing stopping but there’s occasionally paved roads like the one into Dargo that got me to 92km/h with brakes on and sitting up to catch the air. In situations like that the more rotor the better!
There is also the problem sometimes where the packaging of wheel/rotor/fork blades is tight. A 180mm rotor might foul the fork blade, a 140mm might result in the caliper fouling the spokes (dyno wheels especially, doubly so with OG Spyres).
Even 160mm can have spoke/rotor/caliper/blade issues and need fine tuning with rotor shims (hot tip, mcmaster carr carry nice spring steel shims that can be used on centerlock, otherwise syntace make 6 bolt ones)
