MTB tyres

#1

I thought a thread talking about experiences with different MTB tyres in different conditions might be a good idea.

If I had a drum of sealant and more storage space I’d probably change tyres at least once a week to suit different tracks and conditions. Its bloody amazing the difference they make.

Here’s a kind of template, but there’s no big-time need to stick to it.

Tyre- Continental X-king 2.2 29" folding
Rim used - Stans crest
Trouble mounting/sealing? - not at all, using MTB floor pump, stans sealant.
Pressure range run - 20-25PSI (I should take more notice, but I am generally starting at 25 or so and letting air out as I ride until it feels right)
Good points/conditions - Great climbing grip when fresh, nice round profile when inflated, good bite as you lean them over. Have been really good on the sandy, mostly dry trails here, also do reasonably well through super loose golfball rock roads.
Bad points/conditions - No true centre ridge means the rear is wearing pretty quickly and i’m noticing less hookup when things get frantic. When the surface is really hard I can feel and hear the buzz of the tread and they don’t zip as nicely and flick up more muck than a raceking, small block 8 or crossmark.

Overall - This is a compromise of a tire, more grip than lighter and racier tyres I’ve tried, but also perhaps drag a little more. That suggests a good all rounder, but the quick wear on the rear prob kills it there.

#2

Well, I don’t have much to add except Larsenn TT’s suck in the mud, you get nothing.

So on that note whats a good rear tyre for muddy/winter stuff?

  • needs to be 26" and ~2" to fit in the stays, and tubless on stans olympics.
    I was thinking Maxxis ignitor?
#3

Larsen TTs!! I didnt even know they still made em.

Stan’s olympics are light, so I guess you want a light/xc tyre? For mud and fast, I’ve heard that these things are the bomb Continental Cross Country | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com though theyre kind of old, not sure if CRC has em, but I think you can still find em around the place. The narrowness cuts down into mud to get purchase on more surface area. If I were looking down the barrel of a muddy winter, I’d be trying these for sure.

Side note on Larsen, I loved that guy, and feel guilty about bringing up his death, but a friend gave me Saramago’s “Death at Intervals” (which I keep on my desk to look cool) and I think of him just about everyday.

#4

Ignitors are a great general use tyre for SE QLD off road conditions.

#5

MikeD - remind me on the weekend, i might have an ignitor to lend/trade you.

#6

I’ve got Ignitors 2.2, tubed on Alex 29er rims. Generally great for Sydney trail (sandy/sandstone) but get a bit squirrelly in wet clay or mud. Predictably squirrely though.

I generally really like maxxis tyres.

#7

How do they go clearing clay/mud? I hadn’t thought of these as a muddy tyre.

#8

My go to tyre at the moment is the Ardent. 2.4 on the front of my Niner rigid.
A lot of the Gravity Enduro boys are running front and rear. Good grip, not that heavy.

#9

Sammy Slick 26 2.1 was my choice for gravel, sealed and dry dirt. But lord do not take them into the mud.
Quite light at 500grams if I recall and no punctures.

#10

Yep, I just swapped one of these out, and it would/will go back on if/when I put the rigid fork back on. Looks like it would be a really good rear, too, nice paddles. It was the closest I’ve come to needing a compressor to get a seal on my rims… got some shape to it.
What rear are you using?

#11

They don’t clear mud very well, and they don’t really grip too well in the mud/clay either but it is easy (or I am used to) the way they react when they lose grip so I know what to expect and ride accordingly.

#12

Ignitor, turned around the opposite way to the stated rotation. It maybe a mind over matter thing, but it feels as though it climbs/grips better this way.

#13

Otherwise a Crossmark, but only because I have some that came with my Anthem and I don’t like to waste.
Having said that, I would never willingly buy a Crossmark. Other people swear by them.

#14

JP, how much do you weigh? 20-25psi seems crazy low, but maybe you’re a featherweight.

For general XC not super muddy stuff I run a Schwalbe Racing Ralph on the rear and a Schwalbe Nobby Nic up front. Makes for good rolling resistance on the rear and lots of traction up front if it gets wet.

I used to use Crossmarks, but found their traction woeful, especially on steep technical climbs and sharp cornering. I’d prefer to be able to corner well and lose a bit of rolling resistance.

I weigh around 75kg, bike weighs around 12.5kg and run pressures in the 28-33psi (front) and 32-35psi rear.

#15

i’ve got some conti mountain king 2.2 they have worked well over quiet a few surfaces so far…
i’m running mine around 58 psi kept getting pinch flats any lower…

#16

Hmm, nobby nics come in 1.8" maybe that’d be a better bet for the rear for more traction.

#17

Mike, my Melbourne summer setup was a Ignitor LUST 2.35 front, Crossmark LUST 2.25 rear. The Ignitor are a great cornering tyre and hook up really great in sand, medium soil and light mud. I totally rate them as a general use tyre, but whatever you do don’t go narrower than 2.35, they are narrow (the 2.35 is actually 2.1 and the 2.1 is 1.9). I think the tread is probably a little tight to consider using it in claggy, sticky mud. I would look at using Schwable Nobby Nics (make sure to get Snakeskin sidewalls for Melbourne’s rocky trails). In Melbourne you’d probably be able to get away with an Maxxis Ardent on the rear. Its tread is a little shallow for a mud tyre over here (I think).

Sammy Slicks??! H, what trails are you riding? the Warby maybe?
That is a hardpack-only racing tire. Bloody fast but totally incapable of tackling anything remotely technical in even slightly greasy conditions. That said they’re great as a gravel grinder tyre in 700 x 35 (actually 32).

–

I’m looking for a good winter tyre for here in Rotorua. The Schwable Hans Dampfs look shit hot IMO. Would like to try some Conti Mountain King 2s too. Any other suggestions?

#18

Camo, have you got access to an air compressor? if so you should REALLY buy yourself a Stan’s tubeless conversion kit ASAP. You’ll be able to run them down around 30psi, you’ll get miles better traction and grip and you’ll never get snakebites ever again. Once you go tubeless you’ll never go back. Do it!

#19

1.8? Nah, you’re riding a hardtail. Do yourself a favour and run a 2.2 rear at 22psi.

#20

Yeah, but will probably have next to no clearance. It’s a relatively tight rear triangle.