My ALAN Super Sport & Detto Pietro

I’ve got these two which I’m entertaining ideas on how to build.

ALAN Super Sport, blue anodized aluminium frame circa 70s. It was a gift from my fiancé and came from Belgium. I’ve a sneaking suspicion the seat tube is not original.

Detto Pietro, possibly a Polare. Steel frame was made by tecnotrat but trying to work out if its Columbus tubing. Hearted lugs and fluted tubes. I picked this one up for a case of beer of a colleague. The frame itself and the Cinelli fork are brand new, but the bitsa parts (Cinelli Giro d’Italia bars, Rolls saddle, Campag/Shimano cranks) are second hand.

Holy shit! That Alan! Heat-bonded lugged alloy pr0n!!!

Paging Spirito!

Nice frames, get 'em built up !!!

The Detto could either be Columbus or Falck. Not much between them except opinions. They were contracted frames so it can be hard to work out the details of manufacturers.

It’s hard to see from the pics but why do you think the Alan seat tube isn’t original?

From what I’ve read, the Alan’s have the serial number on the seat tube - this one doesn’t. The discolouration on the tube is from decals that have been removed.

There was talk on BNA that some seat tubes failed:

BTW, it is extremely important (!!!) that there should be something like cloth handlebar tape between the front derailleur clamp and the seat tube. Alan were adamant about this and frames occasionally failed here when people ignored their advice and scored the seat tube. Be extremely careful also about using clamps anywhere on the frame for the same reason, and please do not remove the down tube shifter bosses and clamp something on instead. You have been warned!

Given the discolouration from decals that were there, I’m assuming it was a factory repair but its only a guess - its quite possible as there is a serial number on the BB!

Any thoughts on a grouppo? I’d like a blue Galli Criterium, but don’t have the bikkies :frowning:

I’m patiently waiting by the mailbox for these to turn up too :smiley:

That thing is a work of art.

That Alan is beautiful! but i LOVE the Detto!!! My Father has some Detto Shoes with slotted cleats from back in the day and a Jersey he bought at the Detto store in Milan in 1992!!! That jersey is older than my gf which i find hilare.

Haha sounds like a peach! The jersey, I mean :slight_smile:

More pics of the Detto here: frame - a set on Flickr

I’ll probably restore the Alan, not sure what to do with the Detto - possibly SS so it gets ridden. I’ve got a Bianchi that’s my main roadie so might use the Detto to cruise around on.

I hate to have your decision’s buddy nice work, build the alan period if you can.

Most people on BNA are God Botherer’s and rely on oft repeated old wives tales to base their expert advice. That’s rubbish, cloth won’t do shit. Correct amount of torque is all that’s needed and used on many Alan’s that i’ve seen. If a f/der. is clamped on too tight it will dmage the frame no matter if it’s Alu, Steel, Ti or Crabon.

Cutting through the bullshit since forever.

Nice Frame though.

Some more ALAN pics … including Team bikes from the mid 80’s (search for Fanini). Band clamp derailleurs straight onto the frame. Lastly a pic form the NYC Bike show ca. 1976-77 showing frames like yours.

Is that guy hiding his woody.

I don’t notice these details :wink:

Team cars were so much nicer back then.

and his rag in the other, ready

True. Except some of the course director cars were lethal, just ask Jesper Skibby when he was climbing the Koppenberg.


BMW e28 (5 series). I had a very similar one that I still miss. Two actually, Medo use to sleep in the parts car when he was a wee puppy & doing time at my folks place. Good cars, not many good ones left in Oz now.

Spirito speaks the truth…

A little carbon paste under the clamp will reduce the torque setting required to stop the front mech from moving but cloth tape…

My serotta CDA had such a thin seat tube you could pinch the tube and cause it to flex between two fingers…

Mr e tomato suffered first hand at a over torqued front mech clamp pinching and crushing the clamp area destroying the frame of his brand new road bike…

Reguardless of the frame material type you only wana tighten the mech clamp as much as you need to too get the job done…

That’s the tricky part. Every clamp and frame is a little bit different.

I usually go light and see how it shifts whilst on the workstand. It’s easy to use a piece of electrical tape on top of the band and see if it slides or wiggles down when you shift. Then when I think it’s set I’ll take it for a test ride and check again on the road. If all good, remove the tape used to mark the seattube/clamp area and don’t be tempted to tighten it any more (unless needed).

I totally agree

Good tip… If you have a wind trainer you can test things like indexing under load and general under load conditions of your entire drive train and easily make adjustments on the setup with out having to wait for the test ride debrief or trying to figure it out from the saddle. You can watch what’s going on.

When I got my parlee I wasn’t using the parlee carbon clamp so I emailed bob parlee about using a clamp on mech… He told me to use only any much torque as required to get the job done. As I said carbon paste will work on any clamped surface and provides a substantial increase in friction thus reducing the clamping force require to keep the mech clamp in place.

Wait a minute didnt you say malkovich malkovich malkovich… :smiley: