Hi Guy’s, I am new to the forum so hello first and foremost
I am currently finishing off my latest project which is a practical SS commuter for the winter months but I am keen to very soon get started on my next project which will be my fun run around rec bike with the possible option of getting it on the track.
I really want this bike build to be something that will last me a long time and that I can really enjoy getting back to the roots of simplistic cycling but I am unsure of what I should do when it comes to the frame.
It would be good to strike a balance between function, simplicity and form which is why I am unsure if I should be looking at a NJS frame from Japan, a custom frame from the likes of Kumo Cycles or if I should just look at a very good off the rack option.
What have some of you guys opted for with similar personal requirements ? Is there any particular option which anyone thinks stands out or is not worth considering ?
Any info or guidance on this would be very much appreciated.
I have a full NJS Build, and a build with an ‘off the rack’ frame, and then I have my Roadie.
It all depends what you are into… My NJS build is full NJS, ie all Japanese. On the other hand, my roadie is all Italian, frame/group etc. My other build is a bit of a mish-mash of parts. Was originally going to be all Campag but that changed.
The only thing worth considering is the $$$. Work out a budget, work out what you want, and see if you can get it all to fit together.
A good steel frame is a good steel frame regardless of whether it’s from a reputable Aussie builder (Kumo/Ken/Bundy etc) or from one of the NJS master builders. At least with a custom you can pick the size/geo/colour and are not adapting to someone else’s custom frame.
All options are worth considering, it all boils down to budget and if you want new or second hand parts.
In terms of budget I guess I am flexible as I would prefer I have something that will last, if I had to pluck a figure out of the air I think 2-2.5k would be a reasonable amount to work with but I would be happy to adjust that if needed.
Parts wise I have looked at used stuff before but I have always been hesitant about condition so I have generally bought new. Should I be considering quality 2nd hand components ?
$2k will get you a fair bit of bike, you can’t have it all though, you might want to prioritise a bit harder, geometry - road or track? Compact or traditional? BB drop? Toe overlap? Brake drillings? Thread less or threaded steel frame? Clearances? Mudguards? Etc
I basically want a track bike to rec ride with a drilled fork for a front brake. I want it to be as simple and clean looking as possible, ie I am not wanting guards or bottle bosses etc. I would prefer a threadless fork but I am not fussed if its threaded.
I can only assume that you want to build up a track bike. Do you plan to use it on the street or the track or hand it on the wall? Reason I ask is that while Keirin bikes are often beautiful looking machines, keirin gear is often somewhat outmoded in a racing context - ie Carbon/Alloy>Steel and threadless>quill stems. 1.5-1.125/1 1/8">1" steerers. NJS is really about maintaining a strict standardisation of equipment as Keirin racing is a betting sport in Japan. It is totally irrelevant outside of Japan beyond homage.
If you are wanting to get into track racing, or even considering it, don’t go NJS - pick the eyes out of the NJS gear (BBs, cranks, chainrings, cogs, hubs) and forget the (antiquated) rest, ie. quill stems, posts, saddles, handlebars.
And if you want a fixed gear for the street also don’t go NJS. They’re racing bikes with thin wall tubing and ridic tight geometry (super short wheelbase). I’d get a bike that is more chuckable.
In short I’d only buy a NJS bike as a wall hanger. And having said that I’d never buy a bike I wouldn’t ride.
Hey Dice, Thanks that helps me a lot. I want this bike predominately for the street but with the option of chucking it around the track for some fun (I currently commute and do a lot of road riding anyhow so its unlikely it will get to much track time in realism).
Appreciate the info on NJS frames that helps me somewhat strike it off my list. I like the look of thin steel tubing but I also like the more modern aero carbon track frames so I wont discount them just yet. The former of the two options is maybe more preferable given it can be made to measure.
I will say that NJS bikes can make a decent street bike, just like any other steel trackie. My Bridgestone is nowhere near as stiff as my Planet X, apart from the 36 spoke wheels. Which results in a more comfortable ride IMO. It also has less a lot less toe overlap than my Planet X with longer cranks to boot, even though they are the same size (geo differences obviously).
So I wouldn’t discount an NJS (or any steel frame) just yet. Plus the spangly paint is awesome.
+1 on the NJS parts that can carry over though. Cranks/Chains/Chainrings etc are still benchmark. The other stuff is super nice, but certainly not as stiff as alternative modern gear.
Carbon and alloy frames do make for lighter bikes though. In the same guise (clipless/drops) my B’stone weighs in at 8kg flat, my Planet X weighs in at 6.8kg
Interested to hear that the cranks and bb of NJS bikes aren’t the antiquated bits! Even considered “benchmark”. Does this mean (other) people are running square taper cranksets on their roadies, mtbs and cx bikes?
2k - 2.5k is going to fall short of a custom built bike (unless that is just for the frame?) and it sounds like an NJS frame is losing its appeal to you.
So, my 2 cents, get yourself a surly steamroller. threadless steerer, no fancy stuff like lugs to ruin the clean aesthetic, eminently chuckable, tough on the street, drilled. Maybe the first fixed “rec bike” ever, so full of kewl factor.
Get some light weels for it ($500 or so on something great?) if/when you want to get on the track.
Pour the other grand or so into a present for your most loved one and enjoy a very nice time.
