According to the comments option 1 will work, but I can get option 2 a bit cheaper - just want to get the right ones really, and I can’t see what’s different about them. Or is option 2 just new packaging for option 1?
(3) if you don’t care about colour, (4) if you do.
They might be fractionally smaller OD housings, but they’ll still fit. Unlike trying to jam larger OD ones into newer shakes with smaller housing seats.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to protect the BB shell paint when the cables wrap under?
I tried some cable housing inners pre-painting, but they just kink and don’t stay in place. They almost need to be thick enough to jam in the guides, but flexible enough to do the curve. Is there anything available?
i have what you need. not necessarily teflon, but will work good. pm me. ( i have the same thing on all the nagos, and they do silly things with front mech cables.)
Stupid question of the day: I’ve got some 8-speed Ergopower levers waiting to go on my road bike cycle and I was playing around with them last night just to get my head around them and I noticed the left lever for the FD seems to have just as many ‘clicks’ as the right. Maybe I’m just used to STI levers, but shouldn’t there be just one click up to the big dog and then one click with the side button to go back down? How many clicks do you need to, er, click to shift your chain? Possibly this may all be explained when I actually get these guys installed.
The “good” campy left hand levers have many many clicks, basically giving you infinite trim. They’re really fucking good, and used to be on all campy levers, but are now only on the higher end stuff. Not sure what level the cutoff is at these days.
I had old veloce 10sp levers that had all the clicks, and new ones that didn’t, they just had 2 or 3 positions like Shimano ones.
