please help stop me spending all my money on a cx build

hi all,

came across the forum after hearing people talking about it on one of the gravelgrinder rides last year.

I currently ride a rigid 29er as a ‘gravel grinder’ bike and am thinking of building up a proper bike for this purpose, but would be keen to keep the cost down if possible.

I’ve found a cx frame I really like and my initial idea was to swap as many parts from my 29er straight across to the new frame to keep costs down. The wheels, disc brakes will all fit OK and I’m fine running a flatbar.

[b]The frame details state:

Bottom Bracket: BB86 accepts press-fit style BB only, bearing set not included[/b]

I would like to run a Wolftooth 1x10 set-up. I currently run a SLX 32 front chainring and this suits my style of riding and piss weak legs just perfectly. I don’t ever intend to race. I’m a weekend hack who just enjoys getting out on backroads to nowhere.

What crankset should I be looking at? Can anybody recommend anything?

Thanks in advance.

Just buy a new bike: (cheap cross check)
Click Bike bicycle clearance boutique (Salsa Cycles & All-City Cycles)

86/92? What ever cranks you like with in reason, enduro and others make adapters to fit almost all cranks.

needs to be anything with a 24mm axle (ie, NOT bb30, PF30, BBRight, BB386) to fit into those frames.

otherwise, i would recommend going a compact spider (110 BCD) as this opens up bigger gear ranges and also more chainring options.

Why not just continue using the SLX crank?

104 BCD and Q factor sucks for all day riding.

Get these:

Sugino OX601D Road Bike Crankset For Shimano 9 10s 172.5mm 46-30

Don’t believe the OP mentioned having q-factor issues??

srsly. how much is the frame you’re considering?

grab the warbird and sell your existing 29er.

Click Bike bicycle clearance boutique (Salsa Cycles & All-City Cycles)

Have you ridden SLX cranks? No. You ride XTRs. I ride SLX cranks and there is NO FUCKING WAY I would want to pedal all day long on a set of those - they are hella wide.

Do what AL says. ALWAYS.

Calm down. Just because you have issues with wide q-factors doesn’t mean the OP does. You realise some people actually prefer wider?

You’re confusing angry with emphatic. I’m chill.

FWIW they are ∼3cm wider than the road cranks I run. And most people prefer narrower.

FWIW, I’ve never had a problem with my SLX cranks on +200km days. Q factor probably matters less than you think.

Okay, sure thing. I can only speak from personal experience. I notice the difference. My knees go click click click if I ride for extended periods on my MTB.

Anyways apologies to OP for derailing the thread.

It would seem Q-factor is to you what BB height is to me… boom!

Oh dear.

HOLY CRAP.

oratiohh, you probably deserve to lose an h for that.

Thanks for all the replies.

For the record, I don’t have a problem with the Q-factor on my SLX cranks but I will openly admit that the Dura-Ace 7800 cranks on my road bike do ‘feel nicer’.

The frame I like is this one
TCX SLR Frameset (2014) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | Australia

I have a set of Stan’s Crest / Hope Pro 2 wheels which I would like to keep using on my gravel bike.

I’m not going to lie, lots of this is fuelled by aesthetics and the satisfaction of having a bike that I love riding and so while I can see why people would recommend something like the Surly cross-check, it’s just not for me. That’s all down to personal taste though - I’m sure they’re great bikes.

If I can use an adaptor and use my SLX cranks then that would be fine with me.

Fukka crosscheck. I suggested getting one of those salsa warbirds. Insane deal.

That frame + SLX cranks = so derp