Team [color=Blue]PDM Concorde Aquila c.~1989.[/color]
Columbus TSX, 7800 D.A, Chris King hubs & headset, Deda controls (dark metal polish of course), Veloflex tyres. Straight from the Netherlands in original factory undercoat and masking, making it 20 years old, yet brand new when I got it painted up.
Some parts have changed since that original photo - SMP saddle & VO post, Ultegra cranks and Rotor Q-Rings, Deda Zero100 bars, Speedplay pedals. Number plate ‘stolen’ from Matt Wilson.
I’m impressed that this thread has had three pages worth of posts in 2 days, given that the original post is kind of the equivalent of, “Hey guys, post your dicks in this thread. Here’s mine, it’s 12 inches long and thicker than my bicep.”
I can tell you why I bought one and why I like mine.
I bought it because I’m big, clumsy and hard on stuff and I didn’t want to be turning frames over every couple of years. Sure good carbon is nice but I’d be sure to drop a spanner on a chainstay or something (case in point - my brother’s wife knocked his new trek over onto something hard in the garage, cracked his seat tube and there goes his new frame).
Mine’s nothing fancy really - custom built for a heavy rider - just big, fat, round straight-gauge sandvik tubes, TT and DT are ovalised at the ends. Simple as it is, the ride quality is just superb - super stiff and responsive when you give it some wellie but the ride is like creamery butter - soaks up road vibe like nothing else I’ve ridden. My Paconi’s pretty sweet (Columbus EL-OS) but it feels like a wiggly farm gate by comparison.
You can get that with good crabon but Ti is super durable - it’s HARD. It doesn’t fight its welds like Alu, no rust, and day-to-day knocks aren’t a worry. I have actually dropped a 12inch shifter onto the top tube, it left a tiny mark that I buffed off with steel wool good as new.
My $0.02
Only thing you do have to watch is alu and ti can sort of chemical weld (?) if you’re not careful about grease and stuff. DEAN very thoughtfully build an alu sleeve into the seat tube to prevent such problems with seat posts. In other vulnerable places I use Ti-Prep.
this is kinda what i figure - i like the idea that the average lifespan of a Ti frame is 25 years, whereas apparently carbon is more like 10. tough as nails.
i wouldnt count on that figure too much. Ti has a nasty habit of cracking, no matter the maker…that said i own one and love the thing. (also, if you ever want to run ceramics, make sure the bb was reamed by someone competant…ie noone off ebay.cn)
I love this bike, i won’t ever sell it, not the stiffest, but smooth and stable. I think i will likely redo it for this years winter season. sell the zipps and the ultegra sl, get a set of DA carbon laminates and DA 7800. Definately needs new bars. the 44 c-c wing tops just don’t do it for me. (neither do the girly drops or the bars way up in the sky as they are in that photo)
Here is some more Ti. I love Ti for long multi day tours. The ride of Ti is so soft. Some Ti frames do have the tendency to be a bit noodly around the bottom bracket if you are a big guy.
click on the images for bigness
I prefer riding this.
Sorry for the second post. Here are some detail shots and specs. I wanted a lightweight steel bike. Whole rig comes in at 6.8kg. IF factory lightweight; Reynolds 853 and True temper S3, Edge fork, sram red, prototype carbon clinchers with Extralite hubs. Easton slx90 bars, ritchey seatpost.