Had a similar problem on one side of a fixed/fixed flip flop soma hub - even had lockring fixed at LBS, was a surly ring too, so you’d expect it to not really strip a hub easily.
Solution - buy decent lockring and cog combo, phil worked for me, and lock ring tool, and monitor situation. I’d be wary of any superglue/ locktite rememdies too, especially if you decide against running brakes.
not happy, happened to me today, was doing a little skid and all of a sudden i felt i was back pedalling, stopped straight away and my lock ring was off the hub and there was all metal threads everywhere, was not happy. got it tightened at LBS too and hadn’t even been doing anything rough, so now i think i need a better lockring as the cog is roselli?, but luckily i have a fixed/fixed hub its a novatech though, im not sure if there any good though after this incident. 
Happened to me on a Suzue Promax i had on my old fixed gear. Everything was done up correctly and whatnot. Happened whilst doing a brief skid whilst leaving for work one day, good thing i didn’t get far though.
Promax are good hubs. I doubt “Everything was done up correctly and whatnot.”
Must jump to Daniel’s defence here Snowflake. Despite not having trading access, Daniel is no muppet (most of the time :-P) and knows his way around bikes. I’m fairly certain it was not due to his error.
Fair enough.
From what I hear it’s mostly inadequate skills at some shops that are installing cogs and lockrings for customers.
Unless it was an uncommon manufacturing fault I just think it seems much more likely that it was bad installation, or a cheap cog with a too-narrow shoulder than a fault with the Promax.
Now that you mention it, perhaps it was a low quality cog/lockring. Who knows.
partially stripped my velocity hubs 
was doin a skid then all of sudden i was back pedalling.
checked it out and was probably my fault for using a spacer, so theh lockring didnt have enough thread to lock. closer inspecition shows the outter threads were stripped.
took the spacer out, tightend cog, tightend lockring…and all good again 
so lesson boys and girls, if your using spacers, avoid skids :lol:
Do any of you use White Industries ENO hubs (splined cogs with normal lockring that will never be stressed to cause it to strip) or the VeloSolo setup with cogs bolted on to MTB 6 bolt disk front hubs? I’ve got both though not much use yet, but never likely to fail.
I think these kind of set up’s are the way of the future track bike wheels were never built with the intention of lots of skids. Most stripped threads I have seen have been down to cheap cog lockring combo’s.
its not always the hubs that are letting you down, its the shitty cogs and shitty lock rings you are using. After helping a mate build/fix a bike the other day we found that cheap cogs are thinner and have less threads on the cogs, theses will go on fine but then when you put the shitty cheap lock ring on it runs out of threads on the lock side then tries to tap onto the cog thread if you are picking up what im putting down. Then it kinda feels tight but the first skid you do and it all turns to shit.
Do yourself a favour and only use good quality gear, at the moment i run Dura Ace Cogs and Dura Ace Lock ring on my Spoke, the same on my Velocity hub on one side and on the flip a Roselli cog and Surly lock ring.
Surly cogs should be fine and come in loads of sizes and Phil cogs and lock rings also look tops.
Ive snapped a few lock rings just tightening them up before and that cant be doing your hubs any favors. The wider ones give you alot more traction when tightening/loosening.
Also a hot tip is to buy a fixed/fixed hub when you upgrade so if you do fuck a thread the hub can still be used as per normal on the other side.
Also use a good quality chain whip and c spanner, Shimano one rock jocks and never slips. And before you fit it all together clean all the threads of all the shitty old grease and scum, the cleaner they are the better it will hold and less chance of stripping the threads.
Just dont be a tight ass, it will end up costing you more cash and could end real badly if you cant stop your bike.
I saw somewhere else that old Surly cogs are much lower quality than more recent ones which don’t strip threads so much - no way of distinguishing them was given though.
Cog was a generic ‘Bikecorp’ one, would most likely be because of that.
anyone tried the “all city stainless cogs”?
thinking of putting one on my Phil but don’t want to lunch that…
The Phil site recommends only using Phil cogs on their hubs. Says there will be dire consequence if you don’t. You’ll be hunted down and beaten with a sackful of hubs with stripped threads- or words to that effect.
Fellas - it’s easy to tell the difference between a shitty cog and a good cog. All the good ones have a wide shoulder and are fully threaded. Count how many threads the cog has inside. Good ones have 7 or so. Cheap shitty ones, especially the pressed type, sometimes as few as 3 or 4!
Note, expensive doesn’t necessarily mean ‘good’
A shit cog will destroy any good hub…
ps make sure you’re using the correct lockring for your hub to prevent more strippage. There are at least three different standards (Shimano, Campy and Mavic!)
Best piece written on this lately!!