So i was cruising around the other day and doing skids on the grass (as you do) and in the middle of a skid the wheel unlocked and started rolling while my cranks stayed still. weird
so i had a closer look. my lockring had been warped, forced off the threads and had damaged the threads on the hub at the same time. It would seem that i hadn’t locked the cog on tightly before i put the lock ring on and so some play had developed and my mightly 95kg of skid-tastic force had taken it’s toll. I’m a noob at this fixie stuff so it’s a rookie mistake that i’ll hopefully learn from…
so what can i do? i need to grab a new lock ring for certain, but the first few threads on the hub are destroyed as well so to now achieve a “lock” the lock ring will have to sit further in on the threads. is it possible to get narrower cogs to allow this? or should i cut my losses, bin the hub and rebuild the wheel on a new one? it’s the factory wheel from my khs flite so it’s not exactly fancy…
happened to me once when i was riding on a KHS Flite 100 w/ formula hubs…
i tried to s-kid stop then yea same thing happened.
what i do is place that f))ked hub on my desk and GET A DECENT ONE so it would NOT happen to me ever again,
i’m now running velocities on ma bike and they work so well…
(well someone said i can use super glue on the fu)ked hub and cog and lockring and everything will work fine… but that sounds risky to me :|)
think its a fault in the flite’s. We have had issues with people coming back to the shop i work at. The hub has play and the cog isnt on tight enough. Once that is fixed though they are an excellent bike.
cog and lockring tightness shouldn’t be trusted out of the box anyway, just like any other fastening on a complete bike when building.
Have opened up some bike boxes to pretty negligible assembly before.
that reminds me sth more about the flite …
before i actually ride on it,
i went to abbotsford and asked them to put on a new soma 18t cog for me.
then it happened…
so it might not cause by the tightness i guess?
this happened to me yesterday on my flite 100. got a new roselli cog 17t and it was fine for 2 weeks. Then one day i chucked a tiny skid jus to slow me down abit, crack it came off, both the cog and the lockring. the lockring is stock, but this happened to me with the stock 16t as well. So at the moment i’m thinking its the lockring or the hub.
oh and btw i dunno if my hub threads are stripped, they look abit stripped but then i still think that i could still ride it. i am still able to fit the lockring. The cog however doesnt go all the way, but then i’m jus putting it on by hand since i dont have a chain whip tool.
Does this mean that i would have to get a new hub ?
i was riding my new b43’s yesterday at the fix up alleycat, first ride, and stripped one side before the race then the other side went…they have origin8 hubs. A few mates have these hubs and havent had any problems and i have taken it back to the stores where i had my 18t and lock ring put on as well as a few other bike shops and they are all telling me i have a defective hub…im not at all impressed. has anyone else heard of or had any troubles with origin8 hubs
Stripped my brand new potato yesterday:( and have fucked threads before on two other sets.
My remidy is some cassette spacers. They work realy well by a) allowing more torque and b) by spacing out the lock ring letting it have the first treads to bite on.
I should have done this to start of with yesterday but was in a hurry to ride my new wheel and would have had to wait till the bike shop opens to get more spacers.
I’ve got stripped Origin 8 hub on a B43 too. I had minor movement of a cheap cog and lock ring(unable to tighten them properly without proper tools) and this stripped one side of my hub. I’ve since replaced cheap cog and lock ring with Roselli and Dura-Ace and used correct tools with no problems now.
i know with my wheel that wasn’t the problem…i went to my LBS and have never had a problem with that…they and a few other stores are suggesting the hub is a dud
