Take the lockring off and do a massive skid dude, as long as you have a front brake to slow you down after it comes off.
Is it possible to thread the hub if you over tighten the sprocket or lockring?
Yes. (if you mean strip the thread)
wait. so i strip it if i overtighten, and i strip it if i don’t tighten it enough, surely i’m not meant to be using a torque wrench?
The much greater risk is leaving it less than sufficiently tight, as you’ve discovered. I’ve never stripped anything by (over)tightening.
Shimano suggest 17-35Nm on the lockring, but you’d need a specialised tool to check that torque. Get someone experienced to show you how to do it.
this is rubbish. the point of most resistance is just before the wheels start skidding. after that you have broken the ‘surface resistance’ between tyre and road and the length of the skid is irrelevant. maybe doing lots of skids will help but ultimately its an expensive way to perform a function more easily done in a smarter way.
Someone clearly didn’t pay attention to static vs sliding friction in school.
me or him?
Engineer? ha
Not you Nik. And it’s high school level physics, not tertiary.
I am now googling ‘static vs sliding friction’.
And I didn’t pay attention to many things during school, much to my own detriment.
edit: Now googling ‘static vs sliding friction for idiots’
after half an hour of confusion, I change my statement to this.
Ride backwards?
Just filling you all in with what happened. The shop took it back and after about 5 weeks i emailed them, no reply, i emailed again, no reply. i was not in such a rush so i left it and called last week. The guy said someone would call me back (it was obvious he couldn’t find any record of my wheel) 2 days later i got a call from a very very helpful and friendly bike mechanic, telling me he had laced in an all city hub in for free, new spokes and a surly lockring, with the old hub and had done me a very awesome build. he explained the guy that took my wheel was no longer working there after a few stuff ups and they had found he had hidden my wheel under his desk to avoid dealing with it. They also threw in some lock on grips for my mtb and apologised for the delay.
So i now have a new wheel build with a strong hub and lockring… should i also upgrade to a dura ace cog? or will the standard khs cog suffice now it’s all done up super tight?
This is what happened to my off-the-shelf cog:
Upgrade your cog.
Get the best cog that you can afford.
the mechanic said he left my stock one on as it fitted better than the surly, he said the surly was a bit sloppy. Is this a deciding factor on which cog to use? I would have though all cogs would fit.
Violent skip stops are much better for loosening the cog than a massive skid. The impact of the hop increases the skid force.