Checked on two calculators:
Front L+R - 294.5mm
Rear L - 292.2mm. R - 293.8mm
Is there a calculator that will give spoke lengths for building a 24h rim onto a 36h hub - presuming that you’ll need 2 different length spokes depending on pulling / pushing?
Many thanks actually checking, much appreciated. Don’t you just love the power of the forum?
Forums are good for this sort of stuff.
Now my question.
How many people have built Campy wheelsets? (Other than Gemm!)
I’m thinking I was a solid, comfy wheelset. I’ve got a set of Record 36H hubs and I’m thinking of building them to
Velocity Aerohead (F) and Aerohead OC (R).
Hopefully avoid the dishing issue on the rear.
Finished truing this a couple of days ago. Schmidt SONdelux laced 3x to 36h open pro with DT Comp spokes.
A question please.
I have a pair of old Campag hubs (32 hole front and 40 hole rear) and I have mirror finished Deep Vs to match.
Should I build the front in a 3x and the rear in a 4x?
What’s the old way of doing it?
I know Deep V’s aren’t old but that’s all that I could find at the time.
front 3x, rear 4x is correct. The number of crosses is not the important part, it’s the angle at which the spokes meet the hub flange. You want it to be pretty close to tangential. The more spokes in the wheel, the more crosses required to obtain that angle.
- Joel
Done quite a few - you mean road hubs or track? If road, the 3-4mm offset on the OC won’t take out all the dish but a well-executed 36h 3x aerohead build with good DB spokes should be pretty bomber whether you use an OC or not.
Definitely road and not track.
I understand that an OC rim won’t address all the dishing but from what I’ve read it should
allow the wheel to be built with same spokes DS & NDS.
The wheels Gemm built for her CX bike where Circus Monkey onto tubs with 2.0 - 1.8 DS & 2.0 - 1.5 NDS.
So it’s agreed?
Between us, I think.
- Joel
An enjoyable afternoon (re)building yesterday.
Phil Wood high flange front hub, Mavic Open Pro, Phil Wood D-B Black 14/15/14 Custom Cut 270mm Spokes, Phil Brass Nipples 14G (2.0mm) x .500 (13mm)
One sensational radially laced wheel after 16 beers. Cheers John Kennedy!
Looking at doing my first wheel build this weekend if my LBS has the spokes I need. Just ran this calculator:
Edd, an easy to use spoke length calculator
Found it in LFGSS wheelbuilding thread produced by a forum member I used to sink beers with:
Spoke Size / Spoke Length Database - Page 11 - London Fixed-gear and Single-speed
Plenty of people seem to be using it with great success and has an amazing database of rim and hub dimensions. Even had what i needed in Suzue Promax NJS front and rear within the database. All kinds of awesome.
I’m building a ghetto beater to take to Rottnest Island for a holiday for a week. It is a Frankenbike, built from hard rubbish finds and the bits left over from other builds. The goal is to spend nothing at all. I need to build a 700c rear wheel for this bike. Problem = I have a 36 hole hub and a 32 spoke rim. Can I lace them together by missing out one hole in the hub every 90 degrees? Is that even possible? If I do it, then could it cause a catastrophic failure under load?
If this is a Bad Idea, then I’m sure I can get a suitable 700c rear wheel from somewhere — but I’d really like to know whether it is a ‘Kludge Too Far’.
^^^ I was just about to start building the 36h/32h wheel when I found another suitable 700c rear wheel. I’m still interested in how strong a 36h/32h wheel would be — but I’m not interested enough to waste the time (it would only be my second wheel build) and risk my arse.
I’m looking to dive into my first wheelset build. Any recommendations on a good value stand? Bear in mind I’m doing my own building to save some cash, so not keen on spending more than say $150 on one. Was thinking a Park TS-8, which can be had quite cheaply on ebay. Will this be fine for building a wheel, or is it only good for the odd truing and spoke replacement?
I’m yet to start building my wheelset (too many projects on back burners…) but I picked this truing stand up for about $40. Might suit.
Personally I would save the money in a stand, buy a paddle pop… Eat it and profit (unless your dairy intolerant) Use the stick with a couple of rubber bands in your frame to gauge the up and down, use some brakes to work out the side to side. And maybe buy a dishing tool if your not confident… a couple of stacks of 20c coins on the bench will do a similar job and can be used afterwards to buy beer to celebrate a job well done. Most important is a spoke tension gauge/meter/dealie. Alot harder to improvise than the other tools and alot more necessary, especially when your learning.
Does anyone make a 130mm, 32 hole, disc, SS hub?
Understood. But I want a stand. For a similar reason I own a mechanics stand and a whole bunch of unnecessary yet useful tools that can make a job that little bit easier and more efficient. And yes, other tools like a tension gauge are in the mix.