They look very nice indeed. I’ll post some pics when my 50mm clinchers arrive, should be some time this week.
The circus monkey hubs look real good. I’ve got a set built to DTSwiss 1.1’s, but haven’t used them yet. I’ll post up a pic when I can be arsed.
I’ve done this before and it’s harder than you think and only for the ‘anal folk wheel builders’.
Paolo you are right about the decals and I’ll check the specifics.
Also post a pic here of the wheel building rig you bought!!!
Agreed. I’ve worked out a technique for doing it though, and I’ll be building another set of wheels this weekend, so I might take some photos and post a description of how to do it.
Cool. Awesome.
I have it in one of my books too.
You’re kidding aren’t you. If you use the right method and know what you’re doing it’s a piece of piss. If stuff like that doesn’t line up the whole build just looks amateur.
Wow you’re really ‘all over me’ on this site lately Bender.
Need a hug Brah?
I also disagree about looking through the valve hole and not having the hub logo visible as making the whole build looking amateur.
I get bored and you’re an easy target. Internets eh…
It makes the build look amateur… but not to other amateurs. You’re safe. It’s also empty amateurism. Problem amateurism is copying a wheel laced by some of the higher-volume wheel lacing systems, which lace the same way left and right flanges, not mirror imaged as they should be. Creates tension discrepancies in every second spoke. Poetically, less likely to be noticed by internet pedants.
It’s not hard to line up the valve. Just find the middle of the logo, it SHOULD be centred on a LH hole, find the RH hole that sits half a hole rear of it, count back the number of holes that your cross pattern is (eg 3, 2, 1, 0) and put the key spoke (behind the valve hole) in there.
Now you’re all pros, we can talk about why road bikes are overdue to switch to 135 spacing.
- Joel
Folks, may i please ask some advice… I just had a wheel rebuilt. The spokes originally went in one direction as can be seen from the markings on the spoke holes. Its now been rebuilt with spokes going in the opposite direction. I always thought this was a no-no… Is this likely to cause any dramas? Bear in mind, I paid a premium for a “master wheelbuilder” to do this as I needed it done urgently.
Also, is there any way to distinguish between brass and alu nipples without sinking your teeth into them? These ones look like alu, which will shit me further. The brass ones Ive used have always been black so I dont really… know… about… this.
Thanks!
Aluminium nipples are a dull silver, whereas silver brass nipples are shiny.
There’s no problem rebuilding a hub different to a previous build. Machine built wheels are often laced the easy, but inferior way, your builder may use an alternate method.
- Joel
Thanks Joel… i think they are shiny.
Will ride. 
I agree, and it’s not that hard, just a little bit of thought to where your hubs and rims are going to end up.
…and if you don’t do it you will be plagued by pinch flats for the rest of your life. 
What are peoples favorite spoke length calculator?
Some use PCD and some use flange diameter, which is best?
I have used a few different calculators (both PCD and flange diameter) and gotten measurements within 2mm. I assume it is best to go with the longer spoke of the calculations so all of the spoke is taken up in the nipple.
The outside diameter of the flange means nothing. It’s the PCD (with corrections for hole size) that matters, as that’s where the spoke elbow rests. And yeah, err on the longer side.
This is quite good.
Spoke length calculator for calculating spokelengths
And this is also quite good.
Edd, an easy to use spoke length calculator
Between these two, DT Swiss and the Spokcalc Excel spreadsheet kicking around you can’t go wrong.
Unless you mess up the hub specs. Some of the specs for Shimano hubs in the Shimano PDF are wrong - totally awesome.
Double check everything with a set of calipers if unsure.
OK Thanks.
It’s probably best not to over think it either
Okay, I need some help, first time calculating spoke lengths.
Basically I have Open Pro rim front and rear:
With DA hubs:
Assuming standard 3 cross, what spoke lengths do I need? I’d really appreciate the help. Bit confused about all the different flange diameter thingys.
How many holes I am think 294 front 292/294 rear is in my head for the older shimano hubs 32 for some reason. Try spokecalc on sheldons site it’s better than the DT swiss site.
Thanks Slink, 32H